A Quest for the Amami Woodcock
with Tony Prater

22nd - 31st March 2008 

by Don Taylor

ITINERARY

DIARY

Saturday 22nd

Met Tony as planned at Heathrow at 4pm, happy to leave the cold, wet and windy weather behind. Took off about 20 minutes late at 7.20pm, on a JAL 777 in somewhat cramped economy seats, but the Asian vegetarian meals were much appreciated.

Sunday 23rd

We landed after an eleven-hour flight at Narita airport at 3.50pm - Japanese time - a nine-hour time difference, to be greeted by warm, sunny weather. By 5.20pm we'd negotiated seemingly endless queues through passport control, having fingerprints and a photo taken. Took the Skyliner train to Ueno and checked in at the Kyuna Hotel.

Monday 24th

We rose early and Tokyo was alive by 6am and the amazing rail system was chock-a-block with passengers. Our 8.30am flight took off about 30 minutes late and landed just after noon in sunny conditions, with a temperature of 18 o C. It was good to see a Hertz man holding a board with my name on it. Soon sorted out our Toyota hire car and headed for Naze, having identified the first of many BLUE ROCK THRUSHES, with the male's orange underparts, in the airport grounds. LARGE-BILLED CROWS were commonly seen, virtually everywhere we went. Eventually located our B&B and checked in. One major problem in Japan is parking. Our B&B charged just 500 yen a night (£2.50) but we could only park there on four nights and he recommended an alternative for about 600 yen a night.

During the afternoon we drove through the Kinsakubaru Forest in preparation for a visit after dark for our target species. On the way, via Asato, we saw the first of many GREY-FACED BUZZARDS. Among the first birds seen were JAPANESE WHITE-EYES, RYUKYU MINIVETS, GREAT & VARIED TITS, a JAPANESE BUSH WARBLER and a total of three GREY WAGTAILS. Purchased a few bananas and rolls for our supper in the forest and headed back there at 7pm. An hour or so later the car disturbed two woodcock from the road, which flew up vertically, disappearing among the overhanging conifer branches - I thought I heard a scratchy call - they were short-tailed, broad-winged and very different to Eurasian Woodcock but hardly satisfactory views for a first sighting of AMAMI WOODCOCK. Heard one possibly roding later, making a gutteral croaking 'grok-grok', as it circled over, while several Tree Frogs made their various croaking calls. On a couple of occasions we heard what were presumably Ryukyu Scops Owls calling, but not close enough to lamp. Completed our tour of the forest roads at 11pm and it was 1am before I completed these notes and sunk into my bed on the floor.

Tuesday 25th

Situated in a nightclub district there was constant noise and chattering well into the small hours, nevertheless I awoke at 6.45am having had a good night's sleep and the weather looked promising. We needed to exchange currency and purchase food before leaving. Around town, which has a few damp canals, we noted a number of species, including the ever present LARGE-BILLED CROWS, BLUE ROCK THRUSHES and TREE SPARROWS, a GREY WAGTAIL, two WHITE WAGTAILS, a COMMON SANDPIPER, two PACIFIC SWALLOWS and a probable BROWN-EARED BULBUL.

We eventually set out for Akina at 10.45am in warm, sunny conditions. Soon noted a few PACIFIC SWALLOWS and a GREY-FACED BUZZARD, with a noticeably long, pale supercilium. An observation point provided good views of Naze harbour and flight views of our first LIDTH'S JAY. Other species seen included two BROWN-EARED BULBULS, two WHISTLING GREEN PIGEONS, further views of LIDTH'S JAYS and another GREY-FACED BUZZARD flying overhead.

The rice paddies near Akina proved to be a frequent stopping point, as they attracted a good variety of species, even though they were being worked through the various stages of rice production. Among the species noted were INTERMEDIATE and LITTLE EGRETS, 12 LITTLE RINGED PLOVERS, two WOOD SANDPIPERS, two male and a female DUSKY THRUSHES and an ORIENTAL TURTLE DOVE - the local race is particularly dark-plumaged. We pulled in for lunch overlooking Akina harbour and debated the identification of two cormorants there - we still hadn't come to a decision once we'd returned to the UK but learned that all that we saw were probably JAPANESE CORMORANTS. An OSPREY flew over as we ate.

We eventually found the road that took us up to the Amami Natural Forest at 1.30pm and arrived at the picnic site car park about ten minutes later, where we were almost deafened by the raucous calls from a flock of BROWN-EARED BULBULS hungrily eating the cherries there. As we followed a trail we came across two thrush species; the white tips to the outer tail feathers confirmed the identification of the first of many PALE THRUSHES, while Tony eventually had good views of a much larger thrush, that uttered a descending whistle, perched in the open for a short while and concluded that it was probably an AMAMI THRUSH. It didn't reappear at that time. Tony also glimpsed a sparrowhawk species in flight and we had good views of a JAPANESE PYGMY WOODPECKER.

We did a quick 'supper' shop in Akina before locating the golf course, in preparation for a pre-dawn visit the next day. Saw a couple more JAPANESE PYGMY WOODPECKERS and found a good vantage point, where we could gain access to the edge of the course. Headed back towards the Amami Natural Forest at 5pm and stopped at the rice paddies for about an hour until 6.15pm. A flock of about 50 TREE SPARROWS, a couple of MOORHENS and a GREEN SANDPIPER were additions to the list.

Back in the forest, we had splendid close views of an OWSTON'S WOODPECKER feeding - local race of White-backed - and saw two WHISTLING GREEN PIGEONS. Though the light was fading rapidly we had excellent views of what we presumed to be a pair of AMAMI THRUSHES and noted one giving a quivering-wing display. Also heard what we considered to be RYUKYU SCOPS OWLS calling.

From about 7.30pm we drove slowly along the mountain ridge road and within half-an-hour an AMAMI WOODCOCK was disturbed but a second bird provided excellent, relatively close views, as it moved across the road, fed in the grass verge and while returning only flew when the car got too close, while I was trying to photograph it. We continued to drive along the road and back for a while and returned to our B&B around 9pm, when 'mine host' invited us in to practise his English and enjoy a 'celebratory' drink.

Wednesday 26th

Struggled to sleep with the noise of the nightlife and rose just before 3am, parking by the Golf Course at 3.35am. Sadly, all we heard between then until dawn broke around 6am were numerous owl calls, presumably RYUKYU SCOPS OWLS in the main, one of which flew low overhead but didn't alight to be seen in the lamplight. The next hour on the edge of the golf course was also disappointing, with no sign of Amami Woodcock. We only saw and heard the now more familiar species like LARGE-BILLED CROWS, a JAPANESE BUSH WARBLER, PALE THRUSHES, RYUKYU MINIVETS, LIDTH'S JAYS, WHISTLING GREEN PIGEONS and our first BROWN-HEADED THRUSH.

We returned for breakfast, purchased food for lunch and headed towards the airport at 9.50am, with a view to visiting Ose and Tomori Beaches for waders. Various coastal stops produced a few species, including groups of five and six cormorants, photographs of which showing them to be JAPANESE CORMORANTS. Noted the usual BLUE ROCK THRUSHES and PACIFIC SWALLOWS and enjoyed good views of two GREY-TAILED TATTLERS resting on offshore rocks. Stopped by the airport grounds for about half-an-hour at 10.15am, where I photographed both DUSKY and NAUMANN'S THRUSHES and we noted the usual species plus a WHITE-CHEEKED STARLING and a distant COMMON KESTREL.

Turned towards the coast, where the road sign said 'Ose Beach for Birdwatching' and noted another GREY-FACED BUZZARD. There was a platform from which to view passerines within a small wooded area, mainly conifers and we quickly noted a few new species for the trip, including a hen DAURIAN REDSTART, at least three EURASIAN SISKINS, which came as a surprise, and the usual JAPANESE WHITE-EYES and BROWN-EARED BULBULS. Tony also saw an OSPREY flying over.

The tide was out and there was a huge area of beach to scan and we quickly noted such species as GREY HERONS, both dark and white-phase PACIFIC REEF HERONS, a lone FAR EASTERN CURLEW with an amazingly long bill, three GREY PLOVER, at least 10 LITTLE RINGED PLOVERS and three LESSER SAND PLOVERS. As we moved on a ZITTING CISTICOLA showed extremely contrasting black mantle streaks. We overlooked Tomori beach from noon, eating our lunch in the shade of trees and just noting a KENTISH PLOVER on the beach and an ORIENTAL TURTLE DOVE in the trees. We stopped again further north and viewed the beach from a fenced tarmac road, seeing an OSPREY standing in the water and at least 20 JAPANESE CORMORANTS resting on a rock. Among the numerous waders were at least 50 LESSER SAND PLOVERS, 12 or more DUNLIN, three RED-NECKED STINTS, two SANDERLING, one PACIFIC GOLDEN PLOVER, six RUDDY TURNSTONES and Tony also added a CURLEW SANDPIPER just before they were all disturbed. We moved further north and scanned through the mixed flock again, increasing two counts to 60 LESSER SAND PLOVERS and nine TURNSTONE. It was quite windy by 2.45pm and we decided to explore some agricultural land for different species. Filled up with petrol and only noted GREY-FACED BUZZARDS as we headed west and a LITTLE EGRET along a canal, before we reached Kasari Bay, where we saw a GREAT WHITE EGRET, a dark phase PACIFIC REEF HERON and another JAPANESSE CORMORANT.

There was a short rain shower at 3.40pm but it cleared up rapidly and we headed for the Amami Natural Forest again, 7 kms from Ura. Parked around 4.15pm and walked around the area again, having an opportunity to photograph an OWSTON'S WOODPECKER again and having our first, excellent views of a hen RYUKYU ROBIN - Tony also saw a splendid male. The sky was almost cloudless, with a cool wind around 7pm, when we left the forest and headed back to our B&B. The parking for this and the next night cost 630 yen.

Thursday 27th

Enjoyed a good night's sleep before being awoken by my alarm at 5am. It was cloudless, with a light breeze, as we parked in the forest reserve again at 6am, noting several PALE THRUSHES along the ridge road. I had brief but close views of a cock RYUKYU ROBIN - what bright contrasting red, black & white colours. Noted all the usual species as we explored the now familiar trails, with the excellent use of recycled plastic for making the steps. Also heard the distant 'wailing, unbird-like' calls of WHISTLING GREEN PIGEONS. We then experienced one of those magical moments, as two cock RYUKYU ROBINS chased each other in the trees around us, presumably disputing territory but providing unforgettable views. I then had brief but good close views of an AMAMI THRUSH bathed in sunlight as it fed on the forest floor, in much the same area as the previous sightings.

Ate our 'breakfast' in the car park around 8.30am and explored the area again for a while, before heading for the Akani rice paddies again, where we noted a total of 23 LITTLE RINGED PLOVERS, a WHITE-CHEEKED STARLING, three INTERMEDIATE EGRETS, a GREEN and two COMMON SANDPIPERS, along with the usual passerines and GREY-FACED BUZZARDS. At 11.30am a gale force wind suddenly blew down the valley and we returned to our car to shelter from a heavy rainstorm, during which we dozed awhile and ate our lunch between 1.15-45pm as it continued to rain. At 2.45pm Tony is awake enough to spot three duck, so we started birding again by driving around the rice paddies. Located two plus one COMMON SNIPE, noting the obvious white trailing edges to the secondaries as they flew. Also found three BUFF-BELLIED PIPITS and as 10 or more BARN SWALLOWS flew low over the pools two SPOT-BILLED DUCKS flew round and a GREY HERON dropped in to join the five INTERMEDIATE and three LITTLE EGRETS. A MOORHEN, two-three GREEN and two WOOD SANDPIPERS were also present. After further cat-naps the rain ceased around 4.20pm and we walked around the area again. Two ZITTING CISTICOLAS appeared to have a totally different song to the European birds; a high-pitched, thin 'tsissi-tsissi-tsissi' sound. Photographed a Salamander on a wet road, heard an OWSTON'S WOODPECKER drumming, identified a female BLACK-FACED BUNTING, located a male DUSKY THRUSH and a hen DAURIAN REDSTART and glimpsed a probable BROWN-HEADED THRUSH before heading back to Naze at 6.15pm, as more claps of thunder rolled along the hills.   

Friday 28th

Enjoyed another good night's sleep and had a leisurely breakfast, as we needed to cash some dollars for more yen. We planned to visit the south of the island and it was warm as we headed S around 9.30am. We drove along an agricultural valley to Kaminato Bay, turning back around 10am and reaching Misato Bay around 10.20am having heard ZITTING CISTICOLAS and seen several GREY-FACED BUZZARDS. The bay still held a few wintering duck and we were able to add four COOT, two pairs of GREATER SCAUP and a drake WIGEON to the trip list. We were heading for the Mangrove Park, but misread the map and followed a river valley inland to Kawauchi, which proved beneficial for the additional variety of species seen, which included a displaying pair of COMMON KINGFISHERS, two more COOT, a LITTLE GREBE and a pair of WHITE-BREASTED WATERHENS. Other species seen were about seven GREY-FACED BUZZARDS circling high over a ridge, song from an ORIENTAL TURTLE DOVE, INTERMEDIATE and LITTLE EGRETS, a MOORHEN, PACIFIC and BARN SWALLOWS, and calls from JAPANESE BUSH WARBLERS and WHITE-EYES and BROWN-EARED BULBULS.

We scanned from the third or fourth bridge and then returned to the coast road around noon, stopping on the first bridge to see five migrant BARN SWALLOWS, another COOT and a COMMON SANDPIPER. In another part of the bay we noted a white-phase PACIFIC REEF HERON, a GREAT WHITE EGRET and two JAPANESE CORMORANTS. Further south we found the Mangrove Park and walked along the river for a short way until 1.35pm, when it felt quite hot. We'd added a duck TUFTED DUCK and seen at least two more COMMON SANDPIPERS, another COMMON KINGFISHER, four LITTLE GREBES and a GREY WAGTAIL. We viewed the Virgin Mangrove Forest from a viewpoint a little further south and stopped along the road towards Yanmo, overlooking the estuary for lunch at 1.45pm. In the wide, muddy estuary there were over 100 LARGE-BILLED CROWS, including a lone leucistic bird, a dark phase PACIFIC REEF HERON and a GREAT WHITE EGRET but not a single wader.

Drove on S to Setouchi by 3pm, turned back and found the 'mountain' roads by the tunnel entrances. Stopped at a picnic area on the first high peak, where there was little birdlife to keep us and drove to the end of the tarmac road, from which we walked through the forest. We noted at least three JAPANESE PYGMY WOODPECKERS, several GREAT and VARIED TITS, and unbelievably at 4pm we carelessly flushed an AMAMI WOODCOCK - we'd been looking up rather than at the trackside edges. It uttered a chicken-like but gutteral call-note, as it flew. We also disturbed our first JAPANESE WOOD PIGEON and got reasonably good views of it before it flew a second time. We noted a VARIED TIT collecting nesting material and saw two JAPANESE BUSH WARBLERS as we reached Mt Yandoke at 4.35pm, where there was a large concrete structure and aerial platform. We reached the car again around 5.15pm and enjoyed fresh oranges that 'mine host' had presented us with - apparently in season locally.

We were back on the main road and heading N by 5.40pm noting BLUE ROCK THRUSHES and hearing snatches of their song. A quick scan of Misato Bay at 6.15pm produced a pair of SPOT-BILLED DUCK - which we'd glimpsed and lost earlier, as they'd swum behind an island. As we continued the drive back to our B&B the numerous tunnels reminded me of my recent visit to Madeira.

Saturday 29th

Rose at 6.45am for breakfast and left for the Akina region within the hour. Made a brief coastal stop and witnessed a northerly movement, or roost dispersal of at least 20 GREY-FACED BUZZARDS. Reached the Akina rice paddies before 8.30am and found a flock of at least 10 BLACK-FACED BUNTINGS, two BUFF-BELLIED PIPITS and DUSKY and PALE THRUSHES, but relatively few waders as we drove round. From 8.45am we walked around the area and noted the usual species, including drumming from an OWSTON'S WOODPECKER, two LIDTH'S JAYS in flight, a COMMON SNIPE and three SPOT-BILLED DUCKS.

Headed for the coast at 11.30am and were surprised to see a JAPANESE WOOD PIGEON fly from the shore into the scrubby hillside vegetation. Drove through various stretches of woodland noting the usual GREAT and VARIED TITS and stopped by the Ankyaba tunnel at around 1.15pm for lunch.

Took an alternative road up to the Amami Natural Forest noting the usual GREY WAGTAILS on the tarmac. Parked at 2.15pm with the BROWN-EARED BULBULS as noisy as ever. Had brilliant views of an AMAMI THRUSH in much the same area, clearly noting the two obvious cheek bars. Saw both woodpeckers again, with even better close views of an OWSTON'S WOODPECKER as it fed close to the ground on a rotten stump. Left the park as it closed around 5pm and Tony glimpsed a BROWN-HEADED THRUSH before it dropped down off the road. A circuit of the Akina rice paddies produced nothing new but as we drove away we had excellent views of another BROWN-HEADED THRUSH.

Sunday 30th

The night was extremely wet and windy but it kept the revellers quiet! It was still wet and windy as we breakfasted and completed our packing, essentially ready for the off by 8am but in no particular hurry, as our flight wasn't until 7pm. We'd planned to visit the Akina rice paddies and the coastal bays north of the airport.

  It was still raining when we left at 8.30am and the wind was strong en route to Akina, where we arrived some forty minutes later. The usual species were present, with at least five BLACK-FACED BUNTINGS, both races of WHITE WAGTAIL, five COMMON SNIPE, five SPOT-BILLED DUCKS, WOOD, GREEN and COMMON SANDPIPERS but only four LITTLE RINGED PLOVERS. As the rain continued we drove rather than walked towards the edge of the forest and at 10.15am enjoyed a little excitement, as first a PACIFIC SWIFT flew over the trees and then I also spotted an ASIAN HOUSE MARTIN among the small gathering of BARN and PACIFIC SWALLOWS, which brought the trip list up to 70 species.

We drove through the Akina tunnel at 10.40am and took a narrow road towards the coast, stopped by a canal, where we saw a LITTLE EGRET and a heron species flew from virtually under the bridge but it was difficult to see clearly through the rain-spotted car window. However, the rain was easing and we searched the canal for a while and eventually had good flight views of a STRIATED HERON - another new species for the trip. Keen to produce a lengthy last day-list, we drove through the Amami Natural Forest and managed to add another eight or so of the regular species seen, including a JAPANESE PYGMY WOODPECKER and VARIED TIT. We drove through Ura at 12.20pm and stopped for lunch beside the sea near Akakina, where there was still low cloud and light rain - a BLUE ROCK THRUSH sang and joined us for lunch. The rain had almost ceased by 1pm and by 1.25pm, when we parked by Ose beach, it was dry and the weather improved rapidly.

There was a good variety to scan through, including three PACIFIC REEF HERONS, a GREY HERON and a GREAT WHITE EGRET and among the 20 or more LESSER SAND PLOVERS, about 10 RUDDY TURNSTONES, several LITTLE RINGED PLOVERS, a couple of KENTISH PLOVERS, four GREY PLOVERS, Tony managed to find a very obvious GREATER SAND PLOVER - another addition for the trip - and also a COMMON KINGFISHER.

There were three young Japanese birders nearby; Tony joined them and was able to help them with identifying waders, before we moved on across agricultural land close to the shore. Having glimpsed a bird dropping onto a ploughed field, we stopped and picked up an obvious shrike species, as it returned to its perch. Though we got reasonable views, it disappeared before we could confirm the identification of what may well have been a BROWN SHRIKE. It felt very warm as we scanned another stretch of shore, where there was a flock of 100 LESSER SAND PLOVERS, a few DUNLIN and RED-NECKED STINTS, and the first two GREENSHANK of the trip. We could also see a distant OSPREY eating a fish at the water's edge.

By 3pm the sky was blue and we searched the agricultural fields again for the shrike, without any success, but we did find a migrant flock of pipits, which included both BUFF-BELLIED and the first RED-THROATED PIPITS of the trip, and overhead a BLACK KITE caused a little confusion by its square-ended tail - presumably in incomplete moult - and it was photographed well.

We drove to Tomori beach, where we saw a flock of about 80 LESSER SAND PLOVERS flying north but otherwise the area was waderless. As birding time was running out, we decided to fill up with petrol, just south of Ose beach and return there for a final look in what seemed incredibly hot weather - an amazing and most welcome change. Apart from a few LITTLE RINGED PLOVERS there were no waders but we did find two more species for the list, a large female PEREGRINE perched on a rock and a group of two drake and five duck EURASIAN TEAL. We just had time to try our alternative viewpoint, where there was a small flock of 13 JAPANESE CORMORANTS and a few KENTISH PLOVERS, when Tony noted that there was a southerly offshore movement of shearwaters. In less than ten minutes at least 40 must have passed and on their general appearance, flight and the situation indicated that they must be STREAKED SHEARWATERS. A fitting end to a most successful trip and an excellent day in which we noted 53 species and a remarkable 10 new for the trip, that brought that total to 77.

We repacked and ate the rest of our food before leaving for the airport at 5.30pm. The plane took off at 7.20pm and landed at Haneda airport at 8.50pm. We were able to purchase a ticket through to Ueno, via Hamamatsucho station, where we arrived by 10.15pm. Tony purchased our Skyliner tickets for the morning and we returned to our hotel without a hitch at 10.30pm.

Monday 31st

It was overcast with light rain at 6am, when we rose. From our 8th floor window there was an attractive wash of white cherry, or maybe almond blossom bordering the lake and we noted quite a lengthy list of species, including three roosting BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT HERONS, six species of duck, BAND-TAILED GULLS and another similar sized species, a WHOOPER SWAN and WHITE-CHEEKED STARLINGS.

Caught the 7.25am Skyliner train to Narita airport but had to wait briefly for it to be cleaned and we were amazed to see each individual seat simply spin round, so that passengers could sit looking forward. All seats are reserved, each carriage is numbered and stops opposite that number on the platform. All most impressive.

Enjoyed a pancake breakfast with maple syrup, a grapefruit juice and a cup of good coffee - actually three cups, as refills were free, to fill in the time. There was an interesting system of ordering, with a board to which the bill is attached and a 'contact phone', that buzzed when your order was ready.

We took off at 12.30pm for the twelve-and-a-half-hour flight. The circumpolar route north of China and across Siberia provided some amazing views of the stark countryside. There were also good views across northern Europe and over the British Isles before we landed safely.

SYSTEMATIC LIST

Sequence and nomenclature based essentially on Birds of the World - Recommended English Names by Frank Gill and Minturn Wright. An asterisk indicates that the species is new for DWT.

Eurasian Wigeon    Anas penelope

A single drake was present in Misato Bay on the 28th.

*Eastern Spot-billed Duck    Anas zonorhyncha

The first three were seen at the Akina rice paddies on the 27th, with three there on the 29th and five and two on the 30th. The only others were two in Misato Bay on the 28th.

Eurasian Teal    Anas crecca

Five duck and two drake were present on Ose beach on the 30th.

Tufted Duck    Aythya fuligula

A single duck was seen in the river by the Mangrove Park on the 28th.   

Greater Scaup    Aythya marila

Two pairs were present in Misato Bay on the 28th.

Streaked Shearwater    Calonectris leucomelas

A southerly movement of distant shearwaters off Tomori beach on the 30th, involved 40 or more birds, which on general appearance and flight, as well as distribution were in all probability of this species - but too distant to be acceptable as a lifer, as far as I am concerned.

Little Grebe    Tachybaptus ruficollis

On the 28th two were seen along the river by the Mangrove Park and another four on the river to Kawauchi.

Striated Heron    Butorides striata

One, flushed from a 'canalled' river north of Akina on the 30th, eventually gave good flight views.

Grey Heron    Ardea cinerea

At least five were present on Ose beach on the 26th, with one on the Akina rice paddies on the 27th and one again on Ose beach on the 30th.

Great (White) Egret    Ardea alba

Two were present on Ose beach on the 26th, up to four were seen in different bays and estuaries from Misato south on the 28th and at least three were seen along Ose beach again on the 30th.

Yellow-billed (Intermediate) Egret    Egretta intermedia

The first was seen at the Akina rice paddies on the 25th, with another on Ose beach the next day and three at the rice paddies again on the 27th. At least two were noted in Misato Bay on the 28th, with singles again on the Akina rice paddies on the 29th and 30th.

Little Egret    Egretta garzetta

Seen almost daily in a variety of habitats, including the Akina rice paddies, the Ose beach and along various small rivers north and south of Naze, with day totals of three - five on the 27th, 28th and 30th.

Pacific Reef Heron    Egretta sacra

A coastal stop en route to Akina on the 25th produced two dark-phase birds. On the 26th two white and two dark-phase birds were seen on Ose beach, with another dark-phase bird in Kase Bay. Misato Bay also held single dark and white-phase birds on the 28th, when another dark-phase bird was seen in the Mangrove Park river estuary and one dark and two white-phase birds were again noted on Ose beach on the 30th.

*Japanese Cormorant    Phalacrocorax capillatus

We struggled to identify which species we were looking at and the majority were inevitably some distance away. However, on checking photographs taken and some consultation, it was decided that they were of this species. Two were seen on the 25th in Akina harbour, two flocks totalling about 35 birds were seen on rocks between Ose and Tomori beaches the next day, one was present in Misato Bay on the 28th, two were looked at more closely along the coast north of Akini on the 29th and about 20 were noted on the 30th along the Ose and Tomori beaches again.

Common Kestrel    Falco tinnunculus interstinctus

One was seen distantly near the airport on the 26th and a pair was seen near Ose beach on the 30th. The adult male, observed as it perched on a power line, showed remarkably bright yellow legs and the plumage seemed generally brighter, with the darkness of the primaries being more extensive than on the nominate race.

Peregrine Falcon    Falco peregrinus

A large female was seen perched on a rock on Ose beach on the 30th.

Osprey    Pandion haliaetus

One flew S north of Akina harbour on the 25th, another flew over Ose beach on the 26th, where it was later seen eating a fish on the shore, and possibly the same bird was seen nearer Tomori beach on the 30th.   

Black Kite    Milvus migrans lineatus

One was seen well and photographed on the 30th, as it moved north just inland of Ose and Tomori beaches.

(Northern/Japanese Sparrowhawk)    Accipiter nisus/gularis

Tony saw a sparrowhawk in the Amami Natural Forest on the 25th, which, on range and time of year could be either species. Another male sparrowhawk species, with grey upperparts, just glimpsed on the 30th near the airport, had disappeared by the time I was out of the car, could also have been either species.

Grey-faced Buzzard    Butastur indicus

Seen daily in widespread localities, occasionally in small groups of up to seven, but there was a significant northerly movement early on the 29th, involving a minimum of 20 birds flying quite high over the hills, just inland of the coast, south of Akina.

White-breasted Waterhen    Amaurornis phoenicurus

Two were seen well along the river near Kawauchi on the 28th.

Common Moorhen    Gallinula chloropus

Two were seen at the Akina rice paddies on the 25th and 27th, with three there on the 29th. Two were also noted on the 28th, along a river to Kawauchi.

Eurasian Coot    Fulica atra

Only seen towards the south on the 28th, when four were present in Misato Bay and three and one were also seen along nearby rivers.

Pacific Golden Plover    Pluvialis fulva

One was seen on Ose beach on the 26th.

Grey Plover    Pluvialis squatarola

The only sightings were on Ose beach, where there were three on the 26th and four on the 30th.

Little Ringed Plover    Charadrius dubius

Seen on each visit to the Akina rice paddies, with counts of 12 on the 25th, 23 on the 27th and just four on the 29th and 30th. Totals of at least 10 and probably more were present on Ose beach on the 26th and 30th.

Kentish Plover    Charadrius alexandrinus

At least three were seen on Ose beach on the 26th, with five or more on the 30th.

Lesser Sand Plover    Charadrius mongolus

Good numbers were present on Ose beach, with 60 or more noted on the 26th and maybe 150 on the 30th, when a flock of about 100 continually circled over the area for some time before heading further north.

Greater Sand Plover    Charadrius leschenaultii

A lone bird in winter plumage was identified satisfactorily on Ose beach on the 30th, when the larger size and particularly longer and heavier bill than that on a nearby Lesser Sand Plover were obvious.

*Amami Woodcock    Scolopax mira

On the evening of the 24th, in the car headlights at around 8pm, two flew vertically from a track in the Kinsakubaru Forest. Though obviously of this species from behaviour, the views were not acceptable for a first record. Around 8pm on the 25th after flushing one, another was seen extremely well by the road through the Amami Natural Forest but the photographs taken were disappointing.

It was observed crossing the road twice and feeding in the roadside grass, which was sufficiently long for it to disappear into. There was an unexpected third sighting on the 28th at around 4pm, when one was flushed at close range from the side of the track towards Mt Yuidake.

It is most distinctive in flight, with its very broad, rounded wings and short tail, which is hardly visible. On the 24th possible calls from a roding bird sounded like a gutteral croaking 'grok grok', as it circled over the forest. On the 28th a brief flight call sounded 'chicken-like' but quite gutteral.

Common Snipe    Gallinago gallingago

Only seen at the Akina rice paddies, where three were present on the 27th, just one on the 29th and a total of five on the 30th.

Far Eastern Curlew    Numenius madagascariensis

The only record concerned one on Ose beach on the 26th.

Greenshank    Tringa nebularia

Two were present on Ose beach on the 30th.

Green Sandpiper    Tringa ochropus

Only seen at the Akina rice paddies, with one noted on the 25th, at least two on the 27th and 29th and probably three or more on the 30th.

Wood Sandpiper    Tringa glareola

Two were seen on each of the visits to the Akina rice paddies on the 25th, 27th and 30th, with just one on the 29th.

Common Sandpiper    Actitis hypoleucos

Two and three were noted at the Akina rice paddies on the 25th and 29th, with at least five there on the 27th and 30th. During the visit to the south on the 28th, ones and twos were noted at various localities, often along the rivers and a day-total of at least seven was noted.

Grey-tailed Tattler    Heteroscelus brevipes

Two were seen well on some coastal rocks just south of the airport on the 26th.

Ruddy Turnstone    Arenaria interpres

Small numbers were seen on both visits to Ose beach, with nine on the 26th and 10 or more on the 30th.

Sanderling    Calidris alba

Two were seen on Ose beach on the 26th and one on the 30th.

Red-necked Stint    Calidris ruficollis

Of three seen on the Ose beach on the 26th, one was still in winter plumage and a second already showing the reddish neck of summer but they were distant views. Probably four were present in the same area on the 30th.

Curlew Sandpiper   Calidris ferruginea

Tony discovered one in winter plumage on the Ose beach on the 26th, just before the mixed flock suddenly decided to fly.

Dunlin    Calidris alpina

About 12 were seen on Ose beach on the 26th, with about five there on the 30th.

*Japanese Wood Pigeon    Columba janthina

On the 28th, one was reasonably seen well as it perched amongst branches beside the road up to Mt Yuidake and Tony saw two more in flight on the descent. Another was seen flying across the road from the shore into hillside scrub on the 29th, along the coast north of Akina.

Oriental Turtle Dove    Streptopelia orientalis

Seen daily in a variety of habitats, with higher day-totals of at least five on the 26th, 28th and 29th and in excess of 10 on the 30th.

  These birds were extremely dark-plumaged, presumably typical of the local race S.o.stimpsoni .

*Whistling Green Pigeon    Treron formosae

The first two were seen by an observation point, along the coast road that overlooks Naze, on the 25th, when two-three more were seen or heard in the Amami Natural Forest - the wailing calls seemed most un-bird-like. A few were heard and seen by the Amami Golf Course on the 26th, with others in the Amami Natural Forest again on the 27th and 30th, and in the vicinity of Mt Yuidake on the 28th.

Ryukyu Scops Owl    Otus elegans

Calls were heard during the searches for the woodcock: in the Kinsakubaru Forest during the evening of the 24th; at least five pairs were calling along the road in the Amami Natural Forest during the evening of the 25th; four pre-dawn by the Amami Golf Course on the 26th, when one flew over our heads, silhouetted against the sky; and pre-dawn in the Amami Natural Forest on the 27th, but not one was seen perched.

Pacific Swift    Apus pacificus

One was seen near the Akina rice paddies on the 30th.

Common Kingfisher    Alcedo atthis

On the 28th, one was fishing in Misato Bay, a pair was observed along a river near Kuroshiono Mori and another was present along the river by the Mangrove Park. On the 30th one was seen perched on a rock at Ose beach.

*Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker      Dendrocopos kizuki

The first two were seen in the Amami Natural Forest on the 25th, with one or two there on subsequent visits on the 27th, 29th and 30th. At least five were seen on the 28th on the forested hillsides of Yuidake.

*Amami (White-backed) Woodpecker    Dendrocopos leucotos owstoni

Only seen in the Amami Natural Forest, where the first was seen on the 25th, with one-two also seen on the 26th, 27th and 29th, when one was photographed well, as it pecked and ate at virtually ground level on a decaying trunk. Drumming heard above Akina rice paddies could have been this species.

This race is so different from the nominate White-backed that it ought to be a separate species.

*Ryukyu Minivet    Pericrocotus tegimae

About five were seen in the Kinsakubaru Forest on the 24th, two were present by the Golf Course on the 26th and the Amami Natural Forest also produced at least two on the 26th and three or more on the 27th. Two were also seen near Yuidake on the 28th.

(Brown Shrike)    Lanius cristatus lucionensis

A 1st winter shrike seen in agricultural land near Ose beach on the 30th, may well have been of this race of Brown Shrike, though research to date is inconclusive, as the views were not sufficiently long to obtain detailed field notes.

The general impression was of brown upperparts, lacking any reddish hues. There didn't appear to be dark ear coverts and the head was heavily barred. The underparts were pale heavily marked with dark chevrons, at least on the breast sides.  

*Lidth's Jay    Garrulus lidthi

The first two of at least five on the 25th, were seen at the observation tower that overlooks Naze harbour and another three were seen or heard in the Amami Natural Forest. Two were present by the Golf Course early on the 26th and others were seen in the Amami Natural Forest and again there on the 27th and 29th. Just one was noted in the south on the 28th near Yuidake.

Large-billed Crow    Corvus macrorhynchos

Good numbers were noted daily in a wide variety of habitats from town to coast, with the largest concentration of at least 100 in the Mangrove Park river estuary at low tide on the 28th.

In the same area on the 28th this leucistic individual was seen and photographed.

*Varied Tit    Parus varius

The first two were seen in the Kinsakubaru Forest on the 24th. One was seen in the Amami Natural Forest on the 27th, another was seen carrying nest material near Mt Yuidake on the 28th and singles were also seen in forest along the Ankyaba peninsula on the 29th and in the Amami Natural Forest again on the 30th.

Great Tit    Parus major amamiensis

One-five or more were seen daily in the various hillside scrub and forests visited.

The plumages of this wide-ranging species vary considerably. The underparts of these birds, presumably P.m.amamiensis , were almost white but no effort was made to determine other differences.

Barn Swallow    Hirundo rustica

The few seen almost daily may well have been wintering birds but the peak total of about 20 on the 27th, following a thunderstorm, may have been migrants, the majority of which fed low over the Akina rice paddies.

Pacific Swallow    Hirundo tahitica

The Pacific Swallow, a resident on Amami-oshima, was noted daily in a variety of mainly lowland habitats from villages to the coast, with day-totals varying from five - twenty.

Asian House Martin    Delichon dasypus

One was identified among a mixed feeding flock, as the rain eased following a thunderstorm on the 30th, that included both swallow species and a Pacific Swift near the Akina rice paddies.

Zitting Cisticola    Cisticola juncidis

The first was heard and seen by Ose beech on the 26th, with at least three at the Akani rice paddies on the 27th, with five or more there on the 29th and again present on the 30th. Several were heard and glimpsed along the river to Kawauchi, when we explored southern Amami-oshima on the 28th.

There was a noticeable difference in the call and song of this race C.j.brunniceps, when compared with the nominate race European birds. The distinctive 'zip-zip-zip' song was replace by a high-pitched, thin 'tssi-tssi-tssi'.

*Brown-eared Bulbul    Microscelis amaurotis

The first were identified on the 25th in the Amami Natural Forest, where noisy flocks were heard more easily than seen. Totals of 20 or more were noted daily thereafter in various parts of the island.

Once heard, the calls, particularly from feeding flocks, were quite raucous and soon became a regular feature of visits to the forests and those areas with ripening cherries.

*Japanese Bush Warbler    Cettia diphone

Ones and twos were noted daily, in various habitats, with the first on the 24th in the Kinsakubaru Forest and higher day totals of about five on the 27th and 28th.

An obvious Cettia warbler, not unlike the European Cetti's, with a similar short explosive note as an introduction to its gentle 'Turdus-like' song.

Japanese White-eye    Zosterops japonica

Commonly seen daily in widespread localities and various habitats, with noted day-totals varying from three or more to at least 10, when small flocks were encountered, as in the Kinsakubaru Forest on the 24th.

White-cheeked Starling    Sturnus cineraceus

The only individuals identified were seen by the airport on the 26th and the Akina rice paddies on the 27th.

*Amami Thrush    Zoothera major

The discovery of a pair, obviously on territory in the Amami Natural Forest 'park' on the 25th, meant that either one or both were not difficult to find again on the 26th, 27th and 29th, and photographs were taken.

When the pair was seen together on the 25th, one performed a wing-quivering display. [Still awaiting confirmation that these were Amami and not White's Thrushes.]

*Pale Thrush    Turdus pallidus

Once identified in the Amami Natural Forest on the 25th, this species was seen daily in a variety of habitats, with day-totals reaching 15 or more.

*Brown-headed Thrush    Turdus chrysolaus

The first was identified on the Golf Course on the 26th, with a male seen well and photographed close to the Akina rice paddies on the 29th, having probably been glimpsed in the same area on the 27th. Also on the 29th one was glimpsed from the car in the Amami Natural Forest.

Naumann's Thrush    Turdus naumanni

What was considered to be a 1st winter bird, based on the photographs taken, was seen by the airport on the 26th. It was seen with an adult male nominate Dusky Thrush.

This and Dusky Thrush are listed as full species by Gill & Wright, rather than separate races of the latter.

Dusky Thrush    Turdus eunomus

Two adult males and a female were seen at the Akina rice paddies on the 25th, with two more at the Golf Course later. The airport produced an attractive adult male the next day, another was seen near the Akina rice paddies on the 27th, with one there again on the 29th and 30th.

*Ryukyu Robin    Erithacus komadori

In the 'park' area of the Amami Natural Forest, males were seen within three or four apparent territories, one that also contained a female. On the 26th good views of one hen and two most attractive males were appreciated, but the following day a total of three males and one female was noted, with two males providing a memorable sighting, as they chased each other at close quarters, presumably disputing territory.

Daurian Redstart    Phoenicurus ochruros

Single immatures/females were seen by Ose beach on the 26th and by the Akina rice paddies the next day.

Blue Rock Thrush    Monticola solitarius

The first, a male, seen on arrival at Amami airport on the 24th, was followed by daily sightings in towns and coastal habitats, including off-shore rocks, producing noted day-totals of five to twenty or more on the 26th.

The male of this eastern race M.s.philippensis , with its chestnut belly, looks very different to the all blue nominate race in Europe and the species resident on Amami-oshima.

Eurasian Tree Sparrow    Passer montanus

Noted virtually every day in Naze and small flocks were occasionally seen, with a peak of about 50 on the 25th at the Akina rice paddies.

Grey Wagtail    Motacilla cinerea

One-five were noted daily in a surprisingly wide range of habitats, from the expected wetlands of streams and rivers, and the rice paddies, but also along the roads through the forested hills.

White Wagtail    Motacilla alba

Mostly seen at the Akani rice paddies, where day-totals noted ranged between five and 20 on the four dates the area was visited.

The complex issue of White Wagtail races, the separation by some authorities of Black-backed Wagtail, and also Japanese Wagtail, which is a separate species suggests that we could have spent more time endeavouring to identify what we were seeing. Reading Brazil and consulting Alstrom & Mild's Pipits and Wagtails doesn't exactly clarify the issues. However, the two races that I photographed include both male and female M.a.lugens and a male M.a.leucopsis . Brazil lists the former as a separate species, Black-backed Wagtail, which is mainly a winter visitor to Amami-oshima, the latter is an uncommon passage migrant and winter visitor there.

Red-throated Pipit    Anthus cervinus

A mixed flock of pipits, on agricultural land near Ose beach and following rain and strong winds on the 30th, presumably comprised migrants, that proved difficult to see well but one or two individuals were obviously of this species, showing heavy black streaking on the upperparts and a suggestion of the pinkish throat of a summer plumaged bird. The majority of calls were from Red-throated Pipits

Buff-bellied Pipit    Anthus rubescens

The Akina rice paddies provided an opportunity to see this species reasonably well and at least three were present there on the 27th, two on the 29th and five on the 30th. At least two were seen amongst the mixed flock on the 30th, mentioned above.

Eurasian Siskin    Carduelis spinus

At least three were heard (including a male in song) and seen feeding in a conifer by Ose beach on the 26th and two were on the road down from Amami Natural Forest to Akina on 29th.

Black-faced Bunting    Emberiza spodocephala

A female was first identified close to the Akina rice paddies on the 27th and in the same area on the 29th and 30th, a small flock of between 10-15 birds, including smart males, was present. At least four were seen behind Ose beach on 30 th and there were one or two brief bunting sightings in other localities, which were probably of this species.  

A total of 77 species satisfactorily identified.