Mammals of Peru

There were high hopes on this trip of seeing a variety of new mammals particularly the Giant Otter. Certainly the monkeys did not disappoint us giving splendid views of several new species. Our hopes for a big cat were dashed but footprints abounded! We were lucky to experience many of these new mammals in wonderful settings, lazily cruising across an ox-bow lake, lying under mosquito netting and wandering along jungle trails.

However our first encounter was with a South American Sea Lion whilst bobbing off the coast at Pucusana on the 6th. This wonderful creature was happily lazing on his rock but the boatmen were determined we should get a better view. By making a noise they managed to awake the beast and he poised beautifully for photographs.

We had to wait several more days before encountering any more wild beasties but did see our first Llama whilst travelling in the bus over the Andes. Pronounced " ya -ma" these woolly quadrupeds were happily munching on the barren hillside along with some sheep. Their coats were a variety of colours and designed to keep them warm in the Andean winter.

Monkeys were very obliging and at the Cock-of-the-Rock lodge a family group of nine Brown Capuchins happily entertained us. The Common Woolly Monkey had already made an appearance but had been wrongly identified as a bit of tree! We had been looking down across the jungle at a variety of birds at a stop by the roadside. It was very muddy on the road but we all managed to put ourselves in a position where we could see the birds. The monkey was difficult to see as you needed to be in the right place to even make out a vague shape at the bottom of a tree at the bottom of the steep roadside slope. This would have been a very disappointing memory of this species if we hadn't seen a mother with her baby at the Amazonia Lodge on the 12 th.

Some of the group saw a Southern Amazon Red Squirrel whilst we were at the Amazonia Lodge. These were more commonly encountered by the whole group once we were at Manu. As with all squirrels they were adept at running through the undergrowth and only gave views to a lucky few who were looking the right way.

Our last mammal, before reaching Manu, was a White-eared opossum. We were enjoying the hospitality of the Amazonia Lodge and were called by the owner to see an opossum in torchlight. We had to negotiate the mud and puddles in the dark but the opossum was happy to sit in the tree until we had studied it. A nocturnal animal of the open temperate region this was our last chance of seeing this species before we reached the rainforest. The distinctive face pattern of this species made it easier to distinguish from the common opossum.

Manu lived up to all we had read about its wildlife. This enormous area of Amazonian rainforest preserves unexploited habitats that yielded another seven species of monkey and many new mammals.

The Red Howler Monkey prefers riverside trees. It is a widespread species which is hunted for its meat. Three individuals were seen on the 15 th and two on 19 th. The Peruvian subspecies is slightly different having a red-orange head, limbs and tail instead of dark red. It also has a golden back rather than a pale red back.

Saddleback and Emperor Tamarin were the daintiest primates we saw weighing less than a box of cereal. They fed in groups eating whatever they found - fruit, insects and flowers. Most of us saw the common Saddleback Tamarins particularly a group that were by the path to the tree canopy hide. They were running through the foliage and scampered up a large, vine-draped tree. As they climbed around the tree we had tantalising glimpses as they jumped across the gaps. All crevices in the tree were investigated for insects as the group moved away from us.

Again on this trip we heard the Night Monkey calling but did not see it. These are the only monkey that are nocturnal and although common enough move very quietly in the trees. Three agile White-bellied Spider Monkeys gave us clear but distant views from the tree canopy platform on the 19 th. Originally we thought these were Black Spider Monkeys but we were outside this monkey's range. The Peruvian race of the White-bellied spider monkey is all black and these individuals were in the upper level of the forest feeding on fruit. They were sprawling and hanging from the branches using their feet and wonderful prehensile-tail.

The Common Squirrel Monkey is larger than a Tamarin but it is a small agile monkey showing very similar behaviour. We saw them on both the 16 th and 19 th with other primates. They particularly favour travelling with Capuchin. Certainly the Brown Capuchin Monkey was our most frequently seen monkey appearing not only on the 11 th but also at Manu on the 15 th and 16 th. The smaller White-fronted Capuchin Monkey was only seen on the 17 th. Unlike the Brown Capuchin this monkey has a smaller range in South America around the tributaries of the Amazon and not east and south to the coast.

Floating along on our catamaran in Manu we hoped the Giant Otters would make an appearance. We all sat quietly as we drifted across the water on the 15 th looking at birds but hoping for the otter. They usually move in groups and eventually we saw at least five together. They were diving and coming to the surface to breathe, sometimes with a fish. Visible on their throats were little pale spots, each individual having a different pattern. When they realised we were watching them they craned their necks high out of the water. Strangely otters are more endangered than spotted cats because their habitat is limited and accessible to man. However, they are certainly more obliging.

For some of us the adventure of the trip was camping out in the forest at Manu over the night of the 17 th. We were on a platform protected from mosquitoes by nets and thin mattresses gave us something to lie on. Prior to approaching the platform the trees were watered as out quarry would detect our smell if we waited until nearer the lookout. Complete silence was necessary so as not to alert our quarry making it difficult to communicate when there was anything to see. We were rewarded for our vigilance when a Brazilian Tapir splashed around in the mud on the opposite side to the platform. Despite being the size of a small pony its approach to the salt lick had not been detected by us until it managed to slip from the bank, crashing through the vegetation. Tapirs favour swamps where they can browse on vegetation. They use salt licks, along with deer and peccaries, so it is at sites like these that they are most easily seen. It was therefore not so surprising that the other mammal sighting of the night was a Red Brocket Deer mother with her baby. This deer is solitary and enjoys the dense vegetation so we were lucky to see them. Sleep was fitful that night as both Tapirs and snoring gave us all reason to lie awake!

Being heard but not seen was not only the prerogative of birds but also Collared Peccary. We heard them on both the 16 th and 17 th as they stampeded away from us. They move quietly through the forest but were quick to detect us and hence were only ever heard running away!

Footprints of cats and Capybara were evident around Manu along the trails. The Brown Agouti provided views to a couple of us but not even footprints to others.

We were not only interested in the mammals but also the reptiles. White and Black Caiman lounged on the riverbank of the rio Madre de Dios. Only singles of each species were seen, the white on the 14 th and the black on the 16 th. Terrapins also liked to sit by the river and a group on a submerged branch were surrounded by butterflies collecting salts from the terrapins' shells.

All told we didn't do too badly for animals on this trip but I think all of us expected them to be rather more in evidence than they were!

The Top Ten Birds of Peru

compiled by Martin Coath

I received 13 lists, one being joint. Many thanks.

55 species featured, reflecting a wide variety of choice, some no doubt instinctive, but perhaps influenced by the following, in no particular order:

We chose the following groups most:

And singles of Tinamou, Heron, Pelican, Trumpeter, Hoatzin, Penguin, Cocko, Trogon, Swallow, Jay, Wren, Finch, Manakin and Oropendola.

In the end a short list of 12 was called to interview. From this it seems that we preferred blocks of colour which Tanagers especially go for rather than the diffuse and evanescent colours of Hummers, which often did not stay long enough to be fully appreciated, except at Amazonia Lodge.

I gave 10 points to the firsts on each list, 9 to the second etc. and the top groups were-:

I suspect that some groups, like Tanagers and of course Pigeons were penalised because we did not want to load our lists with too many birds from the same family, but I think 13 lists make the exercise reasonably significant statistically.

And so to the final list-:

The winner of the Peruvian cup is....................

ANDEAN COCK OF THE ROCK-WITH 65 POINTS!

I think it won because it had going for it colour, shape, views, calls, behaviour and rarity, although it was not a new bird for everyone.

Congratulations to the winner, but honourable mentions to:

APPENDIX

The following was plan for our original trip itinerary as supplied by Neblina Forest:

CLOUD FORESTS, LOWLAND RAINFORESTS AND MACAW LICK.

18 DAYS/17 NIGHTS

June 5 th Fly to Lima. Overnight Lima.

June 6 th Day 1 LIMA

Full day's birding on the Pacific coast and the western slopes of the Andes. Itinerary to be decided upon based on information from local guides.

Jun 7 th Day 2 LIMA/CUZCO

Early morning transfer to the airport to take the flight to Cusco and we head out south of town with a picnic lunch to Huacarpay lakes. Here we will see a variety of high Andean waterfowl and wetland associated birds. We will be specifically on the lookout for Wren-like Rushbird and Many-colored Rush-tyrant, Puna Ibis and Andean White-winged Negrito. Raptors we may see include Aplomado Falcon, Cinereous Harrier, Red-backed Hawk and Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle. Two birds we will look for in the arid scrub around the lake are the endemic Rufous -fronted Canastero and Streak-fronted Thornbird. We should find the pretty, endemic Bearded Mountaineer feeding in the tree tobacco with Giant Hummingbird. In the late afternoon we'll return to Cusco for overnight. (B, BL)

June 8 th Day 3 CUZCO/CLOUD FOREST

Early start in our expedition bus. We will make a couple of selected stops in the inter-montane valleys, before arriving at the last Andean pass -Ajcanacu. We have had luck with Andean Condors here in the past. In the afternoon we will bird the upper limits of the eastern slopes. Working our way down the eastern slope of the Andes, the forest becomes more continuous and we will spend the afternoon birding to our safari camp at 2800 meters above sea-level at Pillahuata. Possibilities are many but we hope to encounter mixed species flocks of Tanagers, Flycatchers and Furnarids. Gray -breasted Mountain Toucan, Collared Jay and Mountain Cacique are among some of the many species we may encounter. In the evening we will go to a favorite spot where we have had luck calling in Swallow-tailed Nightjar and Yungas Pygmy-Owl with tapes. Night in safari camp close to Pillahuata. (B, BL, D)

June 9 th Day 4 CLOUD FOREST

At breakfast we will be greeted with a varied dawn chorus and Red and White Antpitta should be calling. We will spend all day birding from our camp at 2800 meters to our next stop at 1600 meters. This is pristine forest on a little traveled road. Some of the special birds on this stretch which we will look for include: White-rumped Hawk, Golden-plumed Parakeet, Trilling Tapaculo, Black and Chestnut Eagle, Andean Guan, Scaly-naped Parrot, a wide variety of Hummingbirds including Collared Inca, Chestnut-breasted Coronet, Violet-throated Starfrontlet, Amethyst-throated sunangel, Purple-backed Thornbill, Scaled Metaltail, White-bellied Woodstar. Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, Bar-bellied Woodpecker, Marcapata Spinetail, White-throated Antpitta, Barred and Band-tailed Fruiteaters, White-throated Tyrannulet, Ochraceous -breasted Flycatcher, Barred Becard, Pale-footed Swallow, Mountain Wren, Citrine Warbler and many Tanagers. Night at the rustic but comfortable Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge near Union at 1600 meters (B,L,D )

June 10 th Day 5 CLOUD FOREST

A full day to bird the forest around Union and San Pedro. Possibilities include White-throated Hawk, Solitary Eagle, Rufous -capped Thornbill, Crested Quetzal, Golden-headed Quetzal, Masked Trogon, Highland Motmot, Black-streaked Puffbird, Blue-banded Toucanet, Olive-backed Woodcreeper, Montane Woodcreeper, Spotted Barbtail, Montane Foliage-gleaner, Uniform and Variable Antshrikes, Slaty Gnateater, Chestnut-crested Cotinga, Scaled Fruiteater, Bolivian Tyrannulet, Inca Flycatcher (endemic), Yungas and Cerulean-capped Manakin (endemic), Uniform Antshrike, White-throated Spadebill, Fulvous-breasted Flatbill, Saffron-crowned Tanager, Deep-blue Flowerpiercer and lots more. We will visit one of the two nearby Cock-of-the-Rock leks to watch the strange mating dance of these spectacular birds. Up to 20 males congregate at this spot to display. We will also do some night birding here and we have been lucky previously with White-throated and Rufescent Screech Owl, Rufous -banded Owl, Lyre-tailed Nightjar and Andean Potoo. Nights at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge (B, L, D)

June 11 th Day 6 CLOUD FOREST/ AMAZONIA

After a dawn breakfast accompanied by the singing of Andean and White-eared Solitaires and Paradise Tanagers from the breakfast table, we leave San Pedro at 1600 meters and spend the day birding slowly down to the comfortable Amazonia Lodge at 500 meters. We will pay particular attention to the stretch between 1500 meters and 800 meters. This upper tropical zone forest has disappeared on much of the Andean slopes in South America because of its suitability for cash crops such as tea, coffee and coca, but in this part of Peru the forest remains untouched. Birds we have seen well on this stretch of road include: Rufous -breasted Wood-Quail, Plum-crowned Parrot, Chestnut-collared Swift, Peruvian Piedtail, Long-tailed Sylph, Lanceolated Monklet, Versicolored Barbet, Russet Antshrike, Slaty Antwren, Cerulean-capped Manakin, Rufous-lored Tyrranulet, Marble-faced Bristle-tyrant, Fulvous-breasted Flatbill, Olive-tufted Flycatcher, Golden-crowned Flycatcher, Chestnut-breasted Wren, Dusky-green Oropendola, Golden-collared Honeycreeeper, White-winged Tanager, Yellow-throated Bush-Tanager and much more. We plan to reach Amazonia Lodge before dusk. Night at Amazonia Lodge (B, L, D),

June 12 th and 13 th Days 7-8 AMAZONIA

Two full days at the comfortable Amazonia Lodge. This family run converted tea hacienda has a bird list of over 530 and species are continually being added to the list. The lodge is situated in the transitional zone at 500 meters, where the last low foothills of the Andes begin to flatten out into the lowland Amazon Basin proper. We will be birding a variety of habitats over the next three days including floodplain and hill forest. One day we will pack a picnic lunch and bird the road from Atalaya to Pilcopata. The possibilities here are enormous but some species we will be on the lookout for include: Black-capped Tinamou, Blackish Rail, the strange Hoatzin, Buckley's Forest Falcon, Wattled Guan, Military Macaw, Blue-headed Macaw, Pheasant Cuckoo, Koepcke's Hermit, Rufous -webbed Brilliant, Rufous -crested Coquette, Golden-tailed Sapphire, Bluish fronted Jacamar, Chestnut-capped Puffbird, Fine-barred Piculet, Red-billed Scythbill, Dark-breasted Spinetail, Dusky-cheeked Foliage-gleaner, Bamboo Antshrike, Chestnut-backed Antshrike, Amazonian Antpitta, Rusty-belted Tapaculo, Mottle-backed Elaenia, Red-billed Tyrranulet, Johannis ' Tody -tyrant, Yellow-browed Tody -flycatcher, Black-backed Tody -flycatcher, Ornate Flycatcher, White-thighed Swallow, Golden-bellied( Cuzco ) Warbler, Black-faced Dacnis -the list goes on! We will have the possibility of night birding here and in the past we have seen: Mottled Owl, Black-banded Owl, Tawny-bellied Screech-owl, Great, Long-tailed and Common Potoo. We will be reluctant to leave this very birdy place, but yet more awaits us in the Amazon lowlands. All nights at Amazonia Lodge (B, L,D).

June 14 th Day 9 AMAZONIA/ MANU

Early morning birding near Amazonia Lodge in search of species we have missed. As the day begins to warm, we will head down the Alto Madre de Dios river in our motorized canoes to its confluence with the Manu River (about 4 hours) and then on for another two hours to the comfortable Manu Wildlife Center (all rooms with private bath). This lodge facility is designed to take visitors, but there are always biologists here conducting scientific research, often ornithologists. On the river journey, we will have the opportunity to see some of the typical riverside species such as Pied Lapwing, Collared Plover, Fasciated Tiger-heron, Orinoco Goose and Large-billed and Yellow-billed Terns. Fly-overs will include many species of Macaws and Parrots, and this is our opportunity for some Bird of Prey observations. We plan to arrive at the Manu Wildlife Center in the late afternoon. Night Manu Wildlife Center ( B,l,D ).

June 15 th 16 th 17 th 18 th 19 th Days 10 -14 MANU

Four full days based at the Manu Wildlife Center, situated just upriver from the Blanquillo Macaw lick. There will be the opportunity on two mornings to visit the Macaw lick and observe the spectacle of hundreds of Parrots and Macaws at close quarters from our floating blinds. Here we will see the beautiful Orange-cheeked Parrrot, and sometimes the newly described Amazonian Parrotlet participates at the lick. The rest of the time will be spent birding the extensive trail systems which have been designed to visit different forest types. The area around this lodge has the most forest types of anywhere in the Manu area, and thus the highest, bio-diversity -which means the most species of birds. large stands of Bamboo hold many local and much sought after species, and coupled with the extensive Varzea, Tierra Firme and Mature Transitional Floodplain Forest this means a mind-boggling variety of bird-life. Although investigation of birds is in its early stages we expect this lodge area to hold more species of birds than anywhere else in the world and the bird list is already 550. We will spend time at a canopy observation tower accessed by a spiral metal stairway watching canopy flocks. Plans for a canopy walkway are in the pipeline here as well. Some of the more interesting and unusual species we will be searching for in the Bamboo include -Rufous -headed Woodpecker, Manu Antbird (common here), Flammulated Bamboo-tyrant, White-cheeked Tody -flycatcher, Brown-rumped Foliage-gleaner, Large-headed and Dusky-tailed Flatbills, Peruvian Recurvebill, Dusky-cheeked and Brown-rumped Foliage-gleaners, Ihring's and Ornate Antwrens, White-lined Antbird, Striated Antbird and more. We will certainly look for one of the 5 singing Rufous -fronted Ant thrushes we have located on territory here. Some of the scarcer forest species we will be on the lookout for that we have seen here previously include: Bartlett's Tinamou, Razor-billed Currasow, Pale-winged Trumpeter, Sunbittern, Pavonine Quetzal, Purus Jacamar, Striolated Puffbird, Gray -cheeked Nunlet, Cream-colored Woodpecker, Ocellated Woodcreeper, Colared Puffbird, Ruddy Spinetail, Plain Soft-tail, Striped Woodhaunter, Sclater's Antwren, Banded Antbird, Ash-throated Gnateater, White-throated Antbird, Black-spotted Bare-eye, Black-faced Cotinga, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, White-bellied Tody -tyrant, Royal Flycatcher, Musician Wren, Pale-eyed Blackbird, Yellow-shouldered Grosbeak to name but a few. We will also visit oxbow lakes in the area where we will see lakeside birds including Hoatzin, Sungrebe, Agami Heron, Greater large-billed seed-finch, Silvered Antbird, Rufous -sided Crake, Gray -breasted Crake and we may be lucky and see one of the two Giant Otter families that live in the area. Night birding may produce long-tailed, Great and Gray Potoos, Amazonian Pygmy Owl, Spectacled Owl, Ocellated Poorwill, amongst others. A visit to the large mammal lick here, apart from attracting Tapirs, Peccaries and maybe a Jaguar, also attracts Guans and Currasows. All nights at the Manu Wildlife Center ( B,l,D ).

June 20 th Day 15 MANU/CUZCO

Early start for the airstrip at Boca Manu (2.5 hours upriver), and our last look at early morning Parrot flocks and riverside birds. Our spectacular light aircraft flight over the Andes takes about 45 minutes and we should be in Cusco by midday. The afternoon is free for sightseeeing, shopping or just relaxing in this beautiful city. Night in Cusco (B),

June 21th Day 16 CUZCO/MACHU PICCHU/CUZCO

Transfer to the station to board the train to Machu Picchu with lunch, full day tour and return to Cuzco in late afternoon, overnight at hotel in Cuzco. Optional farewell dinner at local restaurant with folk show. (B,L)

June 22 nd Day 17 CUZCO/LIMA/LEAVE PERU

Early morning flight to Lima and connecting international flights. Day use room at selected hotel in Miraflores. Additional birding excursions near Lima can be arranged for those who wish, if the international flights are not until the evening (B).