The Chambal, India

26th October - 3rd November 2007

by David Newman

 


Fields around the Lodge where many birds were seen

This was a family holiday, not a birding one but I saw 157 species of birds in six days. We stayed at the Chambal Safari Lodge, and the hospitality could not have been better. By breakfast of our first morning, my head was spinning with 43 species seen in the grounds on an hour’s walk-about.  For birders, and especially birders with families who would like to have a taster of India, there could be no better place.

 

The Planning

The Chambal Safari Lodge is 70km south-east from Agra in north-central India. We found it through www.responsibletravel.com, whose philosophy of adventurous travel, balanced with environmental concern and wish to support and sustain local development, fitted with what we wanted. We also wished to introduce our children aged 9-14years to the culture of India in a safe family friendly manner. I noted from the internet that a number of birding tours include a day here and spoke highly of the warm hospitality and good birding. We found these two features so evidently in abundance that I felt others might like it too. This holiday would particularly appeal to those whose party includes a mixture of ardent birders and those who simply enjoy natural history and general travel. There is no swimming pool or beach, and night-life is blissfully quiet so if these aspects are essential to you, perhaps take a second week in Goa.

 

The Chambal

The Chambal river starts in Central India and flows north before turning south-east to form part of the border between Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh south-east of Agra. It flows almost parallel to the river Yamuna, one of the main tributaries of the Ganges, for some 50km before merging with it after a journey of 900km. Unlike most of the Gangetic tributaries it has very little habitation along its banks and consequently has very clean water. For this reason in the 1970s it was chosen as the site for re-introducing a captive breeding programme for the Gharial Gavialis gangeticus, a long-nosed, fish-eating crocodile that was being decimated by poaching. The clean water also makes it one of the last remaining stretches of the Ganges where the Gangetic Dolphin Platanista gangetica is still found in good numbers. A 600km long stretch of the river including 1-6km either side was declared a National Conservation Sanctuary in 1979.

 


Why the Area is Special

The monsoon climate and local geology of the Gangetic plain in this area have led to the formation of a complex mosaic of ravines up to 6km on either side of the river and are so steep and unstable that agriculture is very limited. Much dry small acacia-type scrub still occurs and provides a sanctuary to a host of interesting wildlife. In addition, just north of the Yamuna is a very different looking landscape of rice paddies in which 100square km have been designated as a conservation area for the Sarus Crane. The lodge provides a half-day guided tour of this area where sightings of this magnificent bird are virtually guaranteed.

 

Guides

The lodge employs a very enthusiastic naturalist, Mr Dalveer Singh who knows the areas and the birds very well. He showed us the regularly roosting Indian Scops Owl and Brown Hawk Owls, and Spotted Owlets in Lodge grounds, and I appreciated having the salient distinguishing features between Blyth’s Reed Warbler and Paddyfield Warbler, and between Hume’s Leaf-Warbler and Greenish Warbler among many other slightly tricky species pairs that occur in the area pointed out to me. Early morning and evening walks around the grounds and surrounding fields produced a wealth of species, and one got the impression that so crowded is India that birds cannot help but get used to humans – certainly the quality of the viewing was superb.

 

The Accommodation

The lodge is developed within the 35 acre grounds of a beautiful old large house, where there are many large, mature trees. Eight small brick cottages with verandas grouped into four around an open garden provide comfortable accommodation with en-suite. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are provided outside the main house and are not to be missed if you enjoy Indian food. The owners Mr Ram Parat Singh and his wife Anu were immensely helpful in arranging itineraries, transport and guides, and made themselves very accessible.

 

Other things to do

In addition to the tours offered by the lodge, we took a taxi to Agra early one morning arriving at 7am to see the Taj Mahal with a guide and then on to Agra Fort. In the afternoon we went north to Ketham Forest Reserve on the Delhi Road, to see a large reservoir where I had Spot-billed Duck, Greater Flamingo and Brown-headed Gull amongst other waterfowl seen elsewhere. Within the forest complex we were taken on a fascinating 2 hour tour of the bear sanctuary where dancing bears have been rescued from the streets. This was all arranged impeccably by Mr R.P. Singh.

 

Trips offered by the Lodge

The lodge tours include a camel ride from the other side of the river (in Madyha Pradesh) to Fort Ater; a 40min each way trip. The fort in its day must have been fabulous, but has fallen into decay; definitely worth a visit but it is impossible to bird from the back of a camel! There are two river safaris – one upstream and the other down; it is worth doing both – there is so much to see the chances are you will miss something on one trip and get it on the other. There is also a trip to the temple complex at Bateshawar. At this time of year, the road passes through a large cattle fair which culminates in mid-November when donkeys, horses and camels join the cattle to be traded – it is very atmospheric and full of photographic opportunities. Jeep safaris also go out to another area near the Chambal river where good numbers of the endangered Blackbutt – a rather magnificent deer (male is black and white with very long spiral horns) are found. These tours are half-day in length so there is time to just sit and read on the veranda, play cards, wander around the lodge and have tea on the lawn.

 

Cautions

We made a few mistakes that would be wise to avoid:

  • India requires that everybody entering has a pre-arranged visa. These can be obtained from the Indian High Commission. At present these cannot be obtained by post and you must pay in cash. As we only learnt about this 48hours before departure, it was a bit of a panic. Currently very long queues build each morning and I was advised to arrive by 5am to be sure of getting one – this was good advice!
  • The Indian Rupee is a restricted currency; you cannot order sufficient in advance in the UK. The Lodge only takes cash. The nearest ATM machine is in Agra, a minimum of 1hr 30mins away and once India wakes up, more like 3 hours of somewhat nerve-wracking road. ATM machines only allow 15,000 rupees per day per card and as £1=£80 this is not much. Bring English cash, and change it at Delhi airport.
  • NEVER drink anything other than bottled water that is sealed and properly labelled. Airport security is tight at Delhi; once through security you will not be allowed back out; you cannot change any more money; if you cannot afford a bottle of water in rupees, you might be tempted to drink the water from the drinking fountain kindly provided; this was the only cause of upset tummies in the family.


Further Reading

 

Responsible Travel with a direct link to Chambal

http://www.responsibletravel.com/Accommodation/Accommodation900143.htm

 

Chambal Lodge has its own website:

http://www.chambalsafari.com/

 

Rasmussen, Pamela C. and Anderton, John C. “Birds of South Asia The Ripley Guide”

Pub 2005 by the Smithsonian.

Wonderful book – but probably better after the trip as there is simply too much information to absorb it all before. It is divided into two volumes: a smaller “Field Guide” with illustrations and larger volume 2 giving details of vocalization, habits etc. but the field guide lacks jizz and habit and call details which we would normally expect.

 

Grimmett, Richard and Inskipp, Tim “Helm Field Guides: Birds of Northern India” 2003.

The most convenient and portable. The illustrations are good, but there is a lack of information on jizz, habits and vocalisation.

 

The following checklist of what I saw is based on Sibley-Munroe. The species order is based on Grimmett and Inskipp’s and is slightly different from conventional orders. However, as these two authors seem to have cornered the field guide market for this area, it is easier to stick with this.

List of Birds seen on Chambal Trip

27th October to 2nd November 2007

(157 Species)

 

Grey Francolin Francolinus pondicerianus

Frequently calling from cover at Chambal lodge, and occasionally seen

Common Quail Coturnix coturnix

One put up in dry millet field

Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus

Regularly heard in the morning and at times seen strutting aound as it changes trees, or up in the branches of the tree – appeared to be at least 2 pairs resident in the lodge. Families commonly seen in the fields seen from the road on our journeys.

Lesser Whistling Teal Dendrocygna javanica

Large number on pond by the village – covered in water hyacinth and ducks feeding in the midst and well camoflaged

Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea

Very common on the Chambal.

Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos

Three seen together once on the Chambal

Cotton Pygmy-goose Nettapus coromendelianus

2 seen on a village pond nr Jaswant Nagar on the Sarus Crane Tour – our guide told us they rarely saw them in the area.

Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha

Only seen at Keetham Lake

Northern Shoveller Anas clypeata

Small numbers on the Chambal

Northern Pintail Anas acuta

Small numbers mixed with teal on the Chambal

Common Teal Anas crecca

Flock of 25 female/eclipse on the Chambal on one river trip

Ferruginous Pochard Aythya nyroca

A flock of 25 including some nice males seen on the Chambal on one river trip

Black-rumped Flameback Dinopium benghalense

Seen once in the lodge grounds; resident but not easy to see.

Brown-headed Barbet Megalaima zeylanica

One of the ubiquitous sounds at the lodge  - at least 2 pairs around.

Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala

Almost always calling – a flock of around 10 around all the time at the lodge.

Indian Grey Hornbill Ocyceros birostris

High-pitched call is frequent, and the 2 pairs regularly around but often hide in the trees they are feeding in.

Common Hoopoe Upupa epops

On the barer areas of ground and on wires and trees; very common.

Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis

Frequent on wires over fields over the entire area.

White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis

Common over the fields and near ponds and water ways

Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis

At the Chambal, and near other waterways

Common Hawk Cuckoo Hierococcyx varius

A juvenile seen very clearly in bushes beside the fields near the lodge

Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopacea

Around the garden all the time; also calling at the Taj Mahal in the gardens.

Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis

Tends to keep to cover, but a pair in the lodge grounds and seen on the fields outside.

Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri

One of the most numerous birds. At first light the dim as flocks fly over, alight on trees, around the grounds all day. Around any ruins or monuments, temples.


Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala

Much less common, less noisy and calls much more musical. Both male and female real beauties as feed in the foliage and the sunlight catches their heads. Present throughout the day, but take some finding sometimes.

House Swift Apus affinis

Abundant around larger buildings such as the Taj Mahal, Fort at Agra, Fort Ater and temples at Bateshawar.

Barn Owl Tyto alba                                                                                                       

My wife spotted in the headlights of the car between Agra and Chambal as we were arriving.

Collared Scops Owl      Otus bakkamoena

Has a regular roost through the season. Unfortunatly above the hammock my daughter rather liked, so it changed its quarters but Mr Singh relocate it.

Spotted Owlet Athene brama

2 pairs around the lodge but change their roost regularly. Often awake in the day.

Brown Hawk Owl Ninox scutulata

Regular roost and keep themselves slightly apart – Mr Daveel Singh is usually able to show visitors where they are.

Rock Dove Columba livia

Common in towns and on fields; gathered around a shrine in the lodge grounds.

Laughing Dove  Streptopelia senegalensis

Resident and easy to see around the grounds

Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto

Also resident and as easy to see as back in the UK

Yellow-footed Green Pigeon    Treron phoenicoptera

Around 20 in the top of some figs every morning; often visible at other times, but would often disappear into the foliage.

Sarus Crane Grus antigone

3 pairs seen on the Sarus Crane Tour. Our host told us they usually get larger flocks, but birds the harvesting of the fields disturbs them. The are shy

Demoiselle Crane Grus virgo

A flock of around 5000 roosted on a sand-bank in the Chambal during the day when we first arrived; later in the week they had reduced to a couple of hundred – but numbers came and went as birds came and went.

White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus

The small pond by the trackside as you turn off the road to the Chambal Lodge would have one sometimes, and one was on the large, water hyacinth covered village lake. Also one seen on the Sarus crane tour.

Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus

2 on water hyacinth covered pond by the village

Common Coot Fulica atra

Small numbers on the Chambal River and River Yamuna at Keetham

Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus

Small numbers on the Chambal

Common Redshank Tringa totanus

Small numbers on the Chambal

Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia

Small numbers on the Chambal

Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus

Small numbers on the Chambal

Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola

Small numbers on the Chambal

Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos

Small numbers on the Chambal; also seen on wet areas by roadside north of Mathura

Temminck’s Stint Calidris temminckii

Small numbers on the Chambal

Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus

1 seen on the water-hyacinth covered pond by the village outside the Lodge

Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus

2 seen on the water-hyacinth covered pond by the village outside the Lodge, and 1 on pond on Sarus Crane tour.

Great Thick-knee Esacus recurvirostris

A group of 10 seen on the shore of the Chambal


Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus

Widespread and common by any water body with a good edge and not too much human activity

Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta

Small number on the Chambal

Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius

Common on the Chambal

Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus

Lesser numbers than Little Ringed Plover, and often with them so good to compare

Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malarbaricus

The least common of the 3 Lapwing species. 2 pairs seen on fields on Sarus Crane Tour, and 3 pairs found on the fields near the lodge on an evening walk

River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii

Common on the Chambal

Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus

Common on the fields – most widespread and common lapwing

Small Pratincole Glareola lactea

Small numbers on the Chambal

Brown-headed Gull Larus brunnicephalus

2 immatures seen well on the river Yamuna at Keetham Forest Reserve

Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus

3 in winter plumage on the Chambal one day only.

River Tern Sterna aurantia

Several seen well on each visit to the Chambal and Yamuna rivers

Black-bellied Tern Sterna acuticauda

Small numbers on each visit to the Chambal

Osprey  Pandion haliaetus

One sighting on the Chambal

Oriental Honey-buzzard Pernis ptilorhyncus

One in the lodge grounds gave good views, and also seen in two different locations resting on the ground at the edge of fields in the early morning on our tours.

Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus

Two seen over the fields; we managed to get very close to one for good views as it perched on an over-head wire. Also seen over fields on the Blackbutt tour.

Black Kite Milvus migrans

Abundant over Delhi and Agra, less common in the Chambal Lodge region but regular

Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus

3 around the village and often soaring low over the lodge as the sun got warmer, or perched in the fields. Quite frequent in the fields in the Chambal area, and around the river.

Eurasian Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus

One seen on the Sarus Crane trail.

Shikra   Accipiter badius

Regular and often rather tame member in the lodge grounds; often two together. Also two together on the Blackbutt tour.

Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus

Two seen on one trip on the Chambal; a third rather barred bird considered a Common Buzzard but views too poor to make identification certain and Long-tailed is the usual Buzzard on migration in this area.

Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga

One seen on the Sarus Crane trip.

Bonelli’s Eagle Hieraaetus fasciatus

Regular on the Chambal river trips and often very good views – on the shore, and one pair perched on a a steep portion of the river bank.

Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus

Occasional Chambal river; 1 seen twice over the fields nr the lodge.

Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus perigrinator

Around the Lodge and on the fields outside on two occasions

Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis

10 on the water hyacinth covered pond on the edge of the village by the Lodge

Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster

1 Keetham Lake, 8 along banks of canal, Sarus crane tour.

Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger

Sides of irrigation ditch, Sarus Crane trip, and sides of roadside pools north of Mathura..

Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo

Common along the Chambal and irrigation ditches and the roadside pools north of Mathura. Those in the distance at Keetham Lake might have included Indian Cormorant, but distance and haze made too difficult to tell.           

Little Egret Egretta garzetta

1 once on Chambal River trip; from the roadside nr Marutha, 1 on the Yamuna at Keetham and several around the Lake.

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea

Occasional from the road, but large flocks on the banks of the Chambal – around 30 on one river trip and over 70 on another.

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea

2 lakeside at Keetham, and one seen very close from the canal on the Sarus Crane tour.

Great Egret Casmerodius albus

The pools north of Marutha had one or two birds on both journeys; up to 3 on the Chambal; also on the river Yamuna from Keetham and the Taj Mahal.

Intermediate Egret Mesophoyx intermedia

1 with Cattle Egrets around a pump irrigating a field around the lodge: the yellow bill makes it similar to the Cattle Egrets, but looks twice the size.

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis

Common in the fields esp where pipes pumping water into the fields to irrigate.

Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii

1 regularly on the lawn of the lodge under the sprinkler; common along the canals on the Blackbutt and Sarus Crane tours.

Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber

4 or 5 far side of Keetham Lake.

Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus

Flock of 10 fly over the Lodge one morning, c.30 at Keetham Lake and 8 seen in small groups on the Sarus Crane tour.


Black Ibis Pseudibis papillosa

1 north or Marathura, up to 10 on Chambal River trips and seen every time; 5 in a paddyfield on Sarus Crane tour.


Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia

Seen once on banks of Chambal.

Painted Stork   Mycteria leucocephala

C.30 at Keetham Lake nr Agra, around 30 at the Bateshawar Temple complex where they breed, and 5 seen on the Sarus Crane tour. 2 seen at the wet pools north of Marutha on return to Delhi.


Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans

c.50 Keetham Lake, 6 on Sarus Crane tour including 2 on the banks of the canal.

Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus

2 south of Agra on our arrival, 5 on the Sarus Crane tour including the 2 photographed in the mango tree, and 1 on the banks of the canal.


Black-necked Stork     Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus

2 by the canal on the Sarus crane tour, one of which I photographed.


Bay-backed Shrike Lanius vittatus

1 top of ruined temple at Bateshawar, 1 close to the boat stop Chambal river, and 1 in the fields on evening walk nr the lodge.

Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach

2 in the fields nr the lodge on evening walk.

Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis

1 in the fields around the lodge on final evening walk.

Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda

At least 1pr resident around the lodge, also seen in Agra Fort, and from the roadside on some of the tours.

House Crow Corvus splendens

Ubiquitous but in small numbers.

Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos

Also present in the lodge but never with the House crows. Commonly seen on most tours.

Eurasian Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus

1 beautiful male, beautifully perched in the evening sunshine just outside the lodge boundary on one evening walk.

Large Cuckooshrike Coracina macei

Seen once in good evening light on the fence of the lodge on an evening walk.

Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus

A pair seen very nicely twice in the gardens of the lodge, but not seen in the intervening days.

Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus

Common in the lodge gardens, surrounding fields and en route to the various tours.

Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus

One flew over before breakfast on my first morning.

Common Woodshrike Tephrodornis pondicerianus

One seen well in a tree in lodge grounds one afternoon walk.

Red-breasted Flycatcher Ficedula parva

2 daily in the lodge grounds, usually in the same area.

Ultramarine Flycatcher Ficedula superciliaris

1 sub-adult male appeared briefly in the lodge grounds one morning

Grey headed Canary Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis

1 around in the lodge grounds on our final afternoon

Oriental Magpie Robin Copsychus saularis

At least one around in the understorey of the grounds most days.

Indian Robin Saxicoloides fulicata

Often around lodge grounds, and seen in villages on the various tours.

Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros

1 around lodge grounds and seen nr Chambal river and in villages on Blackbutt tour.

Common Stonechat Saxicola torquata

1 seen in fields on Blackbutt tour; many in the fields around the lodge.

Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata

Seen fields on Blackbutt tour, fields nr Chambal river crossing and in fields around the lodge.

Brown Rock-chat Cercomela fusca

Numerous at Fort Ater and Bateshawar Temples; also around the lodge, and villages on Blackbutt Tour and en route to Chambal River.

Brahminy Starling Sturnus pagodarum

Up to 5 seen on 3 days around the lodge on fields or the village nearby.

Asian Pied Starling Sturnus contra

Daily around the lodge – up to 30 birds; also seen around Bateshawar temples and on the Blackbutt tour.


Common Myna Acridotheres tristis

Very common everywhere; some villages however tended just to have this species and others the Bank Myna. Both species around the lodge, but this one tended to come closer to the house and cottages.

Bank Myna Acridotheres ginginianus

Very common in many villages. Less frequent in the fields around the lodge.

Plain Martin Riparia paludicola

A colony of around 60 in a gorge by the ferry crossing on the Chambal, and around 100 in the gorge near the pumping station on the Blackbutt tour.

Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii

Small numbers regular along the Chambal; a very handsome swallow.


Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus

2 near the ferry crossing point Chambal river, and 2 near the canal on the Blackbutt tour.

White-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus leucotis

Road from village to Chambal Ferry, one seen once.

Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer

Usually a pair in the lodge grounds and seen regularly around the Chambal river.

Ashy Prinnia Prinia socialis

Seen on two days in the lodge grounds; a skulker but tame; often with the Plain Prinnia.

Plain Prinia Prinia inornata

Almost daily in the lodge grounds; tending to come out more into the open than Ashy Prinnia. Also regularly in scrub near the Chambal ferry crossing.

Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus

5 daily in the lodge grounds.

Blyth’s Reed-Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum

1 seen very well skulking in undergrowth in an irrigated part of the lodge garden; also seen once in millet near the Chambal ferry crossing.

Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius

Seen on two days in the garden, once on our bungalow wall and very good views.

Tickell's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus affinis

1 seen very well in the lodge grounds on a pre-breakfast walk.

Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides

Up to 4 in the lodge grounds; on my first morning Mr Daveel Singh pointed out that one bird was Hume’s Leaf-warbler, but views and calls too fleeting and poor for me to count.

Siberian Chiffchaff Phylloscopus tristis

Stictly a sub-species of our Chiffchaff and a rare vagrant to the UK, but the call and colouring very different. Seen and heard very well indeed on morning in the lodge grounds, and more distant views of a bird in bushes at Batashawar Temples.

Common Babbler Turdoides caudatus

Usually a party of up to 20 outside the Forest Reserve check-point on the way to the Chambal ferry crossing. Also once seen outside the gates of the lodge.

Large Grey Babbler Turdoides malcolmi

Distinctive rather repetitive calls (as opposed to the very varied calls of the similar looking Jungle Babbler), common in the fields around the lodge. Also seen on the Blackbutt tour in the fields – where the white outer-tail feathers distinguish it from Jungle Babbler.

Jungle Babbler Turdoides striatus

Numerous and confiding in the lodge grounds, and a source of much amusement with their antics and snuggling up behaviour


Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca

3 in the bushes near the Chambal ferry crossing on one day, and one in the lodge gardens one day, and one in the fields around the lodge on an evening walk.

Ashy-crowned Sparrow Lark Eremopterix grisea

1 one day and 1pr another near the ferry crossing on the Chambal river giving good views.

Sand Lark Calandrella raytal

Variable numbers edge of Chambal river on each trip.

Crested Lark Galerida cristata

On two days one seen close to the Chambal ferry crossing.

Thick-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum agile

Seen almost daily in the lodge grounds, often with reasonable views.

Purple Sunbird Nectarinia asiatica

Male in eclipse with distinctive mid-breast stripe seen on 2 days in lodge grounds.

House Sparrow Passer domesticus

Clearly visible around Fort Ater and Bateshwar Temple complex. Otherwise many mixed flocks of “Sparrows” which are in the fields or flying over in large numbers and impossible to identify the species.

Chestnut-shouldered Petronia Petronia xanthocollis

One of  the “sparrows”, but small numbers seen clearly around the lodge and in the surrounding fields to identify. Regular.

White Wagtail Motacilla alba perso

Numerous in the fields around the lodge and frequent in the grounds. Also along the banks of the Chambal.

White-browed Wagtail Motacilla maderaspatensis

20-30 along the river banks on all the Chambal river trips.

Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola

2 with plenty of yellow feeding on the river bank around the ferry crossing on one occasion.

Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea

On one occasion two birds at the edge of the small pond by the lodge gates.

Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris

One by ferry crossing on river bank once. 2 seen well on field walk around the lodge on our last morning.

Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis

One on wires by roadside between ferry crossing and forest check-point, Chambal river.

Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni

One near the pumping station on Blackbutt tour; appearance noted and calls checked against MP3 player recording.

Black-breasted Weaver Ploceus benghalensis

c.30 good males among a mixed flock of weavers in millet on a walk in the fields on our last morning.

Streaked Weaver Ploceus manyar

One good male distinguished among a mixed flock of weavers in millet on a walk in the fields on our last morning. Possibly 15 others of this species present.

Baya Weaver Ploceus philippinus

c.150 in millet morning of our last day; in the late evening v. few left but replaced by 100s of R-h buntings.

Red Avadavat Amandava amandava

1 beautiful breeding male by roadside early on Sarus crane tour; flies off with several duller birds. 2 other red birds seen later. Also 1 dull bird seen by the little pond near the lodge gates one evening.

Indian Silverbill Lonchura malabarica

3 roadside between ferry crossing and checkpoint on one day.

Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus

1 male seen v. nicely on top of bush on field walk on last evening.

White-capped Bunting Emberiza stewarti

3 females boundary of lodge on one early morning walk.

Red-headed Bunting Emberiza bruniceps

1male with 100s of weavers in millet in the fields around the lodge on last morning; in the afternoon, 100s of R-h buntings and only a few weavers.

 

Mammals

Gangetic Dolphin

Blackbutt

Stiped Squirrels

Civet Cat

 

Reptiles

Gharial

Mugger


Numerous hard-shell and soft-shell turtles.

 

Butterflies

Numerous species in the lodge grounds.