Gran Canaria 11th-18th April 2005

by Martin Coath

INTRODUCTION: 

My wife, son and I spent a week on Gran Canaria at the small, quiet and fairly tasteful resort of Tauro which lies a little inland and to the NW of crowded and tacky Puerto Rico. This island is not often visited by birders, because it has no endemics which cannot be seen elsewhere. However, my wife and I had already visited Tenerife, Lanzarote and Fuerteventura. Gran Canaria lies between Fuenteventura and Tenerife, but is topographically much more like the latter. The western Canary  Islands are much starker and rockier; the eastern islands much sandier, more like splits from North Africa. Like Tenerife, Gran Canaria can look like a gigantic slag heap, but there are extensive woodlands and some beautiful and dramatic scenery.

The east coast is an eyesore with a lot of commercial development and a large wind farm but there are views of the mountains. The west and centre of the island is rugged and sparsely populated. Although some of the resorts are overcrowded the smaller developments provide oases of lush vegetation in place of volcanic rock, which is mostly no good for man or beast. The motorway has been extended recently and now runs from Puerto Rico in the SW along the east coast and round to Agaete in the NW.

The whole stretch can be driven in 75 mins.. In contrast, the roads in the west and centre are narrow, twisting and tiringly slow. This discouraged us from a fuller exploration of the island because we did not want to spend all our time in the car. Those wishing to explore the hinterland would do best to stay in the NW. There are plenty of worthwhile places to visit; the birds can be few and far between in the remote areas, but there are plenty of interesting and often endemic plants.

WEATHER: 

It was cloudier than usual for the Canaries and we even had a few light showers. The temperatures varied from 19 to 26 C, which was an improvement on England, so no complaints.

SITES VISITED:

OASIS DE MASPALOMAS:

My son and I went there every morning early and saw something new or interesting most days, although there are usually few migrants, especially passerines, on the islands. We did however enjoy the sight of a party of elderly Germans indulging in exercises using rolled up towels We paid one visit in the late morning and the area was overrun by tourists. Some visitors may find the nudists in the dunes rather disconcerting, although they are quite discreet if somewhat ample at times.

The area is best approached by taking the westernmost exit from the motorway for Maspalomas; keep straight on over 3 roundabouts, ignoring turns to Mogan, Playa del Ingles and Faro B. The road ends in a turning circle with plenty of parking. Continue on foot across the bridge over the wide culvert and carry on towards the lighthouse with the culvert and its pools and increasing vegetation on your left. This soon leads to a beautiful lagoon fringed by road, reeds and the famous dunes.

There is a sand bar at the sea end with muddy edges for waders and a chance of interesting gulls and terns. It is possible to wander back over and through the dunes, but one grassy area harbours nesting Kentish Plovers. An earlier trip report mentions the area round the lighthouse, but this is all developed now, although waders roost on the rocks.

PAJONALES NATURE RESERVE:

This is remote, but well worth a visit. This beautiful area is best approached via Tejeda or San Bartholeme. Take the turn to El Juncal where the road doubles back left and turns into a negotiable track. Park at the Icona house and walk on. We failed to see or hear the Blue Chaffinch. It is found where the white flowered shrub called Escobon forms an understorey. Unfortunately it is a very difficult bird to see except early morning or late evening, which was not convenient. It is a smaller, greyer race.

CASTILLO DEL ROMERAL:

There is a stony plain south of this little town. It is one of the few unspoilt parts of the east coast and is a nature reserve. It is easy to walk across it, using tracks.

OTHER SITES:

The Pinar de Tamadaba is another site for Blue Chaffinch and is near the recommended town of Artenara, a Rock Sparrow site, in the NW due south of Galdar.

SYSTEMATIC LIST:

CORY’S SHEARWATER:   Seen frequently offshore.

LITTLE EGRET:   1 14/15th Oasis de Maspalomas. 3 Castillo del Romeral 16th.

GREY HERON:   1 imm. Oasis de Maspalomas 14–17th.

 WHITE STORK:   1 Castillo del Romeral 17th landed briefly.

COMMON BUZZARD:   1 apparently in off the sea at Castillo del Romeral 17.30 hrs. 17th.

KESTREL:   18 birds in 12 locations.

BARBARY FALCON:   1 Castillo del Romeral 16th.

BARBARY PARTRIDGE:   Heard Agaete Valley and Barranco de St Nicolas.

MOORHEN:   Up to 20 Oasis de Maspalomas.

COOT:   1 Oasis de Maspalomas:

LITTLE RINGED PLOVER:   Up to 4 Oasis de Maspalomas; 1 Castillo del Romeral. Suitable breeding sites.

RINGED PLOVER:   Up to 9 daily Oasis de Maspalomas.

KENTISH PLOVER:   Up to 6 daily Oasis de Maspalomas. Apparently breeding.

GREY PLOVER:   3 Castillo del Romeral 16th.

SANDERLING:   Up to 60 Oasis de Maspalomas.

DUNLIN:   Singles Oasis de Maspalomas 14th and 18th; 2 there 16/17th.

WHIMBREL:   1-3 Oasis de Maspalomas; 6 Castillo del Romeral 16th.

GREENSHANK:   3 Oasis de Maspalomas 13th ; singles 16th and 18th>

WOOD SANDPIPER:    1 Oasis de Maspalomas 13-16th.

COMMON SANDPIPER:   Singles Oasis de Maspalomas and Castillo del Romeral 16/17th.

TURNSTONE:   Singles Oasis de Maspalomas 13/14th and 18th.

YELLOW-LEGGED GULL:   The dark mantled race Atlantis is common throughout the island with up to 30 Oasis de Maspalomas and 100 Castillo del Romeral.

LESSER BLACK-BACKED GULL:   1 apparently subad. Oasis de Maspalomas 15th; 3ads. There 17th.

SANDWICH TERN:   1 Oasis de Maspalomas 13th.

COMMON TERN:   4 off Oasis de Maspalomas and 1 Castillo del Romeral 17th.

FERAL PIGEON:   Very common: Max 100 Castillo del Romeral.

COLLARED DOVE:   Very common in built up areas.

TURTLE DOVE:   Quite common in built up areas and also seen in open country.

LAUGHING DOVE:   Up to 2 Oasis de Maspalomas.

ROSE-RINGED PARAKEET:   A few seen daily Oasis de Maspalomas.

MONK PARAKEET:   Up to 40 Oasis de Maspalomas where 3 seen carrying nesting material; 2 near Agaete and 2 Playa del Ingles.

PLAIN SWIFT:   Daily in small numbers at Tauro.

PALLID SWIFT:   Up to 50 Oasis de Maspalomas 14-18th. 100 Castillo del Romeral 17th.

BEE-EATER:   1 Oasis de Maspalomas 17th.

HOOPOE:   Up to 5 daily Oasis de Maspalomas and 3 Tauro; 2 Bandama.

GREAT-SPOTTED WOODPECKER:   3 Pajonales.

LESSER SHORT-TOED LARK:    10+ Castillo del Romeral.

SAND  MARTIN:   Singles at Oasis de Maspalomas 14th and 17th; 5 on 16th.

SWALLOW:   2 Oasis de Maspalomas 17th.

BERTHELOT’S PIPIT:   Quite common and widespread in open country.

YELLOW WAGTAIL:   1 Oasis de Maspalomas 13th.

GREY WAGTAIL:   1 Aldea and 2 en route from Mogan.

NORTHERN MOCKINGBIRD:  This 1st for Spain and 4th for the Western Palaearctic was still singing from concrete statuary and other vantage points on and around a busy roundabout in Arguineguin on 12th.

ROBIN:   I singing below Roque Nublo.

BLACKBIRD:   Very common round habitation. Up to 10 Tauro; 15 flying into one tree Fataga.

SARDINIAN WARBLER:   Quite common in open country and round developments.

BLACKCAP:   2 Barranco de St. Nicolas; 2 Puerto Rico.

CANARY ISLANDS CHIFFCHAFF:   This species with its buff and grey tones and fairly distinctive song is the most widespread Passerine, occurring round developments and on remote hillsides. The tail seemed rather long.

BLUE TIT:   4 Agaete Valley; 3 juvs. Tauro; 2 Fataga: singles Pajanoles and Bandama. This bird has at least 3 distinctive plumage differences from nominate Caeruleus as well as a distinct vocabulary. Why are these Canary Islands birds not a separate species?

SOUTHERN GREY SHIKE:   2 pairs Oasis de Maspalomas, 1 with 4 fledged young; 1 singing Castillo del Romeral. With its dark upperparts and lack of pink on the underparts. It seems a very distinct taxon.

STARLING:   Up to 2 Oasis de Maspalomas of a bird which is scarce in the Canaries.

SPANISH SPARROW:   Very common in built up areas: 100 Castillo del Romeral.

COMMON WAXBILL:   Up to 11 Oasis de Maspalomas and10 Tauro; 2 Playa del Ingles.

CANARY:   Several Pajonales; 2 Tauro; 1 Puerto Rico.

GREENFINCH:   Present Oasis de Maspalomas.

GOLDFINCH:   4 Oasis de Maspalomas; 2 Playa del Ingles; singles Aldea and Pajonales.

56 species +

GLOSSY STARLING SP:   1 at Oasis de Maspalomas on 15th. When perched it looked turquoise green, but in flight the gloss was purple and blue. Eye red.

SOUTHERN MASKED WEAVER:   A pair seen in the reeds Oasis de Maspalomas.