Northern and Eastern Europe

May/June 2010

by Eustace Barnes

Photos by Janos Olah, Harri Taavetti & Eustace Barnes (EB). All pictures were taken on this tour.

ITINERARY
20th May:

Morning flight bound for Warsaw and on to Krakow. Night Dom Goschinny in the Wolski forest.

21st May:

Birding the Zator Fishponds near Krakow.

22nd May:

Morning Krakow. Afternoon birding Wolski forest and agricultural areas nearby.

23rd May:

Morning Wolski forest. Afternoon flight to Budapest. Night within walls of Buda Castle.

24th May:

Drove to Zemplen hills. Night Tokaj.

25th - 26th May:

Explored Zemplen hills. Nights Tokaj.

27th May:

Early morning Zemplen hills, drove Debrecen great wood, then explored northern Hortobagey.

28th - 29th May:

Southern and Central Hortobagey

30th May:

Drove to Torocko in Transylvannia.

31st May - 2nd June:

Drove to Odorheiu Secuiesc in central Carpathians. Visited Bucin pass, Becaz gorge, Hargita Mountains and environs.

3rd June:

Drove to Sinaia. Took cable car up to 2000m. Drove Bucharest PM for our flight to Helsinki.

4th June:

Flight to Oulu. Met up with Haari and went birding.

5th - 6th June:

Birding in vicinity of Oulu. Drove Tervola and on to Kuusamo. 7th June Drove to Ivalo.

8th - 10th June: Varanger Fjord area. Road to Hamningberg. Varanger Fjord and Hornoy.

11th June:

Varanger Fjord and Batsfjord Fells. Drove to Saariselka.

12th June:

Flights to Helsinki and on to London.

DAILY DIARY
On arrival in Krakow we discovered there had been torrential rain in Poland for three weeks and that the Wiswa river had burst its banks, flooding large areas. This set the course for discussions about anthropogenic climatic change, which when allied with the recent Icelandic ash cloud left us feeling reflective. However, inspite of the weather our activities were largely unaffected and a visit to the Zator fishponds produced Red-backed Shrike, Golden Oriole and Wryneck as well as Black-necked Grebe, Penduline Tits, Scarlet Rosefinches, River Warbler and several Bluethroats. The following morning we took a city tour to see the castle and central square. After another storm we found Middle-spotted and Grey-headed Woodpeckers around the hotel and later on, in an open area, good numbers of Marsh Warblers delivering their mimetic jumbled songs. One bird gave perfect renditions of Starling, Swallow, Blue Tit, House Sparrow, Stonechat, Reed Warbler, Whitethroat, Icterine Warbler and others.

The following morning we saw Wood Warbler, Collared Flycatcher, another pair of Middle-spotted Woodpeckers and several Hawfinches around the hotel before heading to the airport for our flight to Budapest. On arrival we wandered around the spectacular Buda castle section of the city; well worth a visit. From Budapest we headed to the Zemplen Hills with Janos Olah, seeing a Lesser-spotted Eagle on the way. An afternoon walk produced Grey-headed Woodpeckers, a pair of Lesser-spotted Woodpeckers at a nest hole and a spectacular Black Woodpecker. The scrubby grasslands throughout the area were full of Red-backed Shrikes, Bee-eaters, Golden Orioles and White Storks. As it had also rained in Hungary the meadows were very damp, making Corncrakes more numerous than usual and an evening excursion successfully produced good views of one bird.

Another superb day of birding started with Syrian Woodpecker, Wryneck, more Red-backed Shrikes, River Warbler and a few Bee-eaters around the hotel. After breakfast we met up with Zoltan (the ‘woodpecker man’) and headed off in search of Owls. We drew a blank at our first Eagle Owl site and hurried on in search of more elusive species. On the way we saw an Osprey and a sub-adult Eastern Imperial Eagle before arriving in a secluded valley. We climbed up through an old stand of tall beech woodland to be greeted by a rather protective female Ural Owl and were able to watch her at length; a magnificent bird. Later we took lunch at a pretty spot in the northern Zemplen hills and found one of very few remaining pairs of Red-breasted Flycatchers, a couple of Grey Wagtails and a White-throated Dipper (one of the six pairs in the hills).

We then headed back to Tokaj to visit another quarry and this time found a female Eagle Owl brooding three well grown chicks. An evening excursion in search of Nightjar failed as it was cold but we did hear Fire-bellied Toads and a good number of Corncrakes rasping away in nearby meadows.

The next day began sunny and windless but Zoltan promised rain. As a result we headed directly for a White-backed Woodpecker nest. On arrival the birds were busily feeding young, giving us some excellent views, which was just as well, as it coincided with the first peals of thunder followed by heavy rain. (Another 22mm fells that morning). After some enjoying outstanding views of this rare woodpecker we descended to the road and headed south in search of raptors. Needless to say this was a futile exercise but we did see Black and Grey-headed Woodpeckers, Hawfinch, many more Red-backed shrikes and a number of Golden Orioles. We then retraced our steps to a pretty valley for lunch where we hoped to find Tawny Owl, but were out of luck. Not to be discouraged, Zoltan tried another site at which an adult Tawny Owl sat impatiently; we were clearly late for the appointment.

In the afternoon Janos picked up a preening adult Imperial Eagle about a mile away at a site we had checked earlier. The skies then began to clear, which was nice and we headed to a ‘raptor’ watch point picking up Black Stork and Black Kite almost straight away. Then after numerous Buzzards, Marsh Harriers and Ravens we picked out four Honey Buzzards. Then it was time for a rest and dinner before the evening session. As it was a still warm evening, conditions were perfect and once at the chosen meadow we heard up to eight Corncrakes. Within no time, or so it seemed, we had good views of two birds. Not far away, a little later, a Nightjar eventually came to see what we were up to and it was time to call it a day.

We began the day with a magnificent adult Eastern Imperial Eagle before heading to Debrecen en route to the Hortobagey (Or-toe-barje); now, more swamp than steppe. We stopped at the Debrecen ‘great wood’ and spent an hour in a hide from which we saw Great-spotted and Middle-spotted Woodpeckers, Greenfinch, Chaffinch, Hawfinch, Nuthatch, Tree sparrow, Yellowhammer, Song Thrush, Collared Flycatcher and Blackcap in a little under an hour.

We then headed to the northern Hortobagey for a magnificent afternoon's birding. On the drier steppe we found a pair of Long-legged Buzzards and within minutes had spectacular views of Common, Honey and Long-legged Buzzards together, along with a couple of White-tailed Eagles.

At the same site we found Hoopoe, Lesser grey Shrike, Common Crane, 16 Spoonbills and a roosting Long-eared Owl. A little further along the road we stopped to watch hundreds of White-winged and Whiskered Terns, more Common Cranes, Ferruginous Ducks and a Montagu’s Harrier quartering over the grasslands. A thunder storm threatened to the north and it was time to head south to a Red-footed Falcon colony in an old Rookery; a truly spectacular sight, after which we retreated to our accommodations.

After a night of heavy rain, in which 20mm fell in one hour bringing the local May rainfall to 210mm, we expected the worst. However, we kicked off with a stunning pair of Saker Falcons. We then headed to a Pratincole site, but access required tractors and a hovercraft so we stuck to the highway. Luckily six Collared Pratincoles had elected to do likewise along with a smart Ruddy Shelduck; a vagrant to Hungary. After lunch we visited a large fish pond and found our first Pygmy Cormorants, 88 Ferruginous Ducks and a number of other wildfowl. A little further on, we stopped for Red-necked Grebe and then it was down to business in the search for Little Crakes. In total, we managed three males, with superb views of one that came out into the open; bird of the day I think.

The Hortobagey ‘swamplands’ were proving more rewarding than we expected but the final part of the day was disrupted by the rains and we could not drive to the Aquatic Warbler site. Instead we headed to a site for Great Bustard and found nine huge males in a bachelor flock, a magical moment indeed. We then headed back to base at Navadur finishing the day with Little Owl; our fifth Owl. Lesser grey Shrike, Roller and a few Red-footed Falcons were also present.

Nature’s wake up call rang out at 5am with a simultaneous earth shattering peal of thunder and a bolt of lightning. We were beginning to think that a boat might come in handy for day two in the Hortobagey swamplands, as another 20mm of rain had fallen overnight. Our second day began with a Stone Curlew, a late (injured or educationally challenged) White-fronted Goose and a Wheatear. After an entertaining search for Quail, culminating in a single bird flying round us we headed for some new ‘wetlands’ to see hundreds of marsh terns, Black-tailed Godwits and Ferruginous Ducks; always a thrill, but no Moustached Warbler. The next site was better and eventually we saw one singing in the reeds, which was not a moment too soon, as two thunders storms converged on our position and soaked us. Not to be deterred from our mission we headed south to where it had not rained for two days, which seemed impossible. The track out to the marsh was drivable and we headed off for our appointment with several pairs of Aquatic Warblers. They certainly lived up to their name as we waded out into the marsh, with Fire-bellied toads calling and marsh terns fishing around us, to wait for the warblers to start singing, which they duly did at 6.10pm. Thunder rumbled all around us and darkening clouds threatened but the rain held off. Somewhat relieved and certainly surprised we then headed back to base camp having found all of our Hortobagey targets.

Today, in the same way one wakes up just before an alarm clock rings, we woke up in expectation of deafening thunder claps but instead were treated to clear and sunny conditions. The grounds rang to the songs of Cuckoos and Nightingales and we quickly found Wryneck, numerous Red-backed Shrikes, Golden Oriole, Hoopoe and Hawfinch in the wooded areas and Little Bittern and Savi’s Warbler on the fishing lake by the hotel. We then departed for Torocko in Transylvannia or ‘the occupied territories’ as Janos calls it, perhaps reminding one of the complex Balkan history and recent ethnic strife in the region. We entered Romania and headed for the Alesd reservoir where we found a summer plumage Black-throated Diver, 110 Great-crested Grebes, Teal, Goosander, 3 Little Gulls, several Little-ringed Plovers and other wildfowl on the lakes as well as a number of Ortolan Buntings. Deeper into this mythical region we reached Torocko and headed for the hills to find Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush, Woodlark, Tawny Pipit and a pair of Golden Eagles. After dinner a rather brisk walk around the village produced a Tawny Owl and a Scops Owl.

Another day dawned and we were enjoying the superb scenery and unspoilt meadows of another magical historic landscape. Golden Eagles soared along the cliffs along with a Peregrine. In the meadows we picked up Whinchat, numerous Red-backed Shrikes and a couple of pairs of Red-rumped Swallows, the latter somewhat rare in the Carpathian basin (or Greater Hungary as it is called on the front cover of the road atlas). We then departed from the Torocko region and headed east to visit Sighisoara (see-gish-wa-rah); world heritage site and home to the legendary Vlad the Impaler or Count Dracula as we know him today. After a wander around the delightful citadel we headed east to Odorheiu Secuiesc stopping en route to see Thrush-like Nightingale and Garden Warbler.

Waking to thick low lying cloud we headed north to the conifer clad Bucin pass where we found a new group of birds, including Ring Ouzel, Water Pipit, Common Redstart and Wheatear in the meadows while in the forests Firecrest, Goldcrest, Crossbill, Dunnock, Wren, Crested and Coal Tit were common.

It did rain, but again we seemed to miss the worst of it. Continuing north-west to the Becaz gorge, an impressive site with canyon walls rising vertically 400m from the road edge, we searched for Wallcreeper. We were not disappointed, with three seen very well; always good to see this delightful species.

After watching a male singing for some time we retraced our steps to the flower rich meadows of the Gheorgheni basin in search of Scarlet Rosefinch and Great Grey Shrike, both of which we found, the former here in a small ‘extralimital’ population. A little further on we found a Nutcracker and a Hoopoe at another low pass before calling it a day a returning to our hotel; an interesting combination.

Another day, another storm but not one that lasted and we were able to divide our time between the high elevation coniferous forests of the Hargita mountains and the Homorod fishponds. Coniferous forests are not easy in late May, but we did find Willow Tit, several Nutcrackers and our tenth woodpecker; the Three-toed Woodpecker. Later in the day at the Homorod fishponds the weather was warm and sunny. As a result we saw a good number of raptors including 7 Lesser-spotted Eagles, 1 Golden Eagle and numerous Buzzards. At the ponds we found a superb Bittern, a Little Bittern, Ferruginous Duck and a Common Shelduck. It was then time to head back to base through the flower rich meadows full of Red-backed and Great Grey Shrikes, Yellow Wagtails, Golden Orioles and White Storks.

Departing Odorheiu Secuiesc in bright sunny weather we drove south to Sinaia in the southern Carpathians. We then took a cable car up to 2000m meters and searched for birds in the alpine zone. We found our principal target; the balkanica race of Horned Lark, a rather large and greyish race. On our descent we saw a Chamois, a rare animal at this site. However despite an intensive search we did not find Alpine Accentor, a species known to breed at this site. We then took our leave and drove to Bucharest for our flight to Helsinki arriving somewhat late.

Although I am not obsessed by weather, I had hoped that, once in Oulu, we would have escaped the 8/8 cloud cover, rain and gales of Eastern Europe but we were to be disappointed. On arrival we met up with Harri Taavetti and headed off for several important appointments in the teeth of biting winds and driving rain.

Notwithstanding the weather it was a spectacular day starting with an outstanding performance from a female Tengmalm’s Owl. We then had reasonable views of a large female Ural Owl before heading back to our hotel for a nap. En route we had great views of a pair of Slavonian Grebes, always a class act along with numerous Cranes, Redwings and a beautiful Common Snipe feeding in the open. Once the PM rains had abated we visited a Great Grey Owl nest to see a drenched bird sat on an enormous pile of sticks. Having watched this magnificent, but rather sorry looking bird, we tried less successfully for a Pygmy Owl. As it had been cold all day we figured the male was off hunting. At this point we noticed it was 9.30pm and returned to our hotel for a rest. Round the clock birding began to take hold.

The following day we started with a very vocal Blyth’s Reed Warbler and enjoyed exceptionally good views of this bird before returning to see the Eurasian Pygmy Owls; a female with at least two young.

This was the beginning of a very memorable day as our next stop produced heart-stopping views of huge female Great Grey Owl on the nest with three chicks. Harri then found the male roosting nearby and we stood and watched them and they sat and watched us for about an hour or so before we had to move on. Apart from the owls these forests seemed very poor for birds. At most stops there would be a few Redwings singing, a few Siskins or Redpolls, the odd Crossbill and maybe a Black Woodpecker.

The next stop gave us magical views of a pair of Hawk Owls causing some concern as they swooped low over our heads. We decided to leave them in peace to attend to their chicks and left for Kuusamo driving through some lovely forested areas stopping once more to watch a pair of Siberian Tits feeding young. We then headed to our digs for the ‘night’; the usual two or three hours that birders get on arctic trips.

Leaving the hotel at 3.30am we headed to a nearby Black Grouse lek which was a great spectacle. A little later we found a stunning Hazel Grouse after a few attempts and were able to watch a calling male at length, obtaining some great photos in the process. Otherwise we found Velvet Scoter, Smew, Black-throated Diver and Red-necked Grebes on the numerous lakes lining our route.

Further exploring the Oulanka National park proved rather quiet and so we went to look at the Calypso Orchids; the plant that provides the park with its logo.

Our drive north to Vardo in Norway was probably the most enjoyable day of the whole trip, surprisingly enough. We started at a bog, north of Ivalo with Ruff, displaying Broad-billed Sandpipers and a number of Long-tailed Duck, Smew, Velvet Scoter and a distant Rough-legged Buzzard. A pine wood nearby had a few Arctic Redpolls and a pair of Siberian Jays, which we had failed to find at Valtavarra north of Kuusamo.

Continuing north we headed for the fells en route to Batsfjord where we found Horned Lark, Arctic Redpoll, Lapland Bunting, Red-throated Pipit, numerous Long-tailed Skuas and a Merlin along with Golden Plovers, Long-tailed Duck and a couple more Rough-legged Buzzards. Later, along Varanger Fjord we eventually found a Red-necked Phalrope, six White-tailed Eagles and countless Arctic and Long-tailed Skuas. Vardo is on an island and access to it is via a 3km tunnel that is not advertised until one is at the tunnel mouth. Glad a boat trip was not in order, we began an evening of birding with huge flocks of alcids and ducks around the shoreline. The harbour area produced around 160 King Eiders with several breeding plumaged males. A little later, at the north-western headland, a huge female Gyr Falcon was found dismembering some hapless auk. As there were not many around this year this was very lucky indeed.

Our boat trip to Hornoy, just off Vardo, was spectacular with huge numbers of Guillemot, Razorbill, Puffin and Black Guillemot and after a bit of searching a few Brunnich’s Guillemots. On subsequent days we found a stunning male Steller’s Eider and a sub-adult White-billed Diver completing the list of targets for the area. A ‘night drive’ produced a Willow Grouse, several Short-eared Owls and 18 White-tailed Eagles along the coast. Of the 18 eagles many were tearing up fish they had found or caught, often amongst flocks of sheep and lambs. These poor creatures seemed blissfully unaware that a ‘notorious predator’ of sheep was only meters away. Surely, if these birds were predators of lambs the ewes would be more concerned by their presence. I can think of a useful educational visit for Scottish farmers that might prove cost effective for the UK taxpayer in these straightened times.

This excellent Europe trip recorded an impressive 288 species, not including several unpublished splits. In this total we found 12 owl, 10 woodpecker, 23 raptor and 20 warbler species. This total must be one the highest that could be achieved in Europe. We could have reached three hundred in a better year for waders and if we had sought every species.

TRIP LIST
All species seen by the group except where indicated. 288 bird species recorded in total.

L = Leader only. H = Heard only.

DIVERS (GAVIIDAE)

Red-throated Diver (Gavia stellata) Common Norway.

Black-throated Diver (Gavia arctica) 1 adult-plumaged bird, Alesd reservoir, Romania. A rare find in late May. Common Finland and Arctic Norway.

White-billed Diver (Gavia adamsii) 1 sub-adult bird seen near Vadso.

GREBES (PODICEPTIDAE)

Black-necked Grebe (Podiceps nigricollis)  Found Zator fishponds, Hortobagey and Alesd reservoir.

Slavonian Grebe (Podiceps auritus) A lovely species seen in Finland.

Little Grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis) A few seen at Zator fish ponds and Hortobagey.

Great-crested Grebe (Popdiceps cristatus) Seen throughout.

Red-necked Grebe (Podiceps grisegna) 1 seen in Central Hortobagey. Several Kuusamo.

GANNETS (SULIDAE)

Northern Gannet (Sula bassana) Seen en route to Hamningberg.

CORMORANTS (PHALACROCORACIDAE)

Eurasian Shag (Phalacrocorax aristotelis) Common at Vardo, Norway.

Great Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo)  Common.

Pygmy Cormorant (Phalacrocorax pygmaeus) 5 Central Hortobagey.

DUCKS AND GEESE (ANATIDAE )

Whooper Swan (Cygnus cygnus) Abundant Finland.

Mute Swan (Cygnus olor) Common Zator fishponds. A few Hortobagey and Transylvania. Greylag Goose (Anser anser) Seen throughpout.

Bean (Taiga) Goose (Anser f. fabialis) 1 seen near Vadso.

White-fronted Goose (Anser albifrons) 1 late bird in southern Hortobagey.

Mallard (Anas platyrhnychos) Seen throughout.
Gadwall (Anas strepera) Common Zator fishponds.

Wigeon (Anas penelope) Common in Finland.

Shoveler (Anas clypeata) Several near Navadur and common Finland.

Garganey (Anas querquedula) 1 male Zator fishponds, 1 pair Zemplen Hills, common Hortobagey.

Teal (Anas crecca) 1 male Alesd reservoir. Common Finland and Norway.

Ferruginous Duck (Aythya nyroca) Common Hortobagey with 88 on one pond. A rapidly declining species in Europe.
Pochard (Aythya ferina) Abundant Zator fishponds.

Greater Scaup (Aythya marina) A pair along the Hamningberg road.

Tufted Duck (Aythya fuligula) Common Zator fishponds, several Zemplen hills and common Finland.

Common Eider (Somateria mollissima) Common Varanger Fjord, Norway. (EB)

King Eider (Somateria spectabilis) A lovely species with some stunning males seen in a flock of 160 at the southern end of Vardo island. Several smaller flocks noted in Varanger Fjord. Steller’s Eider (Polysticta stewleri) 1 superb male and two females in Vadso harbour. Common Scoter (Melanitta nigra) Common Varanger Fjord.

Velvet Scoter (Melanitta fusca) Fairly common from Kuusamo northwards.

Long-tailed Duck (Clangula hyemalis) Common from Ivalo northwards.

Goldeneye (Bucephala clangula) Fairly common Finland and Norway.

Smew (Mergulus albellus) Small numbers seen Norway and Finland.

Red-breasted Merganser (Mergus serrator) Seen in Finland.

Goosander (Mergus merganser) 1 male Alesd reservoir, Romania Abundant Norway.
Ruddy Shelduck (Tadorna ferruginea) 1 adult Hortobagey. A vagrant to Hungary.

Common Shelduck (Tadorna tadorna) 1 seen at the Homorod fishponds, Transylvania. Common Norway.

HERONS (ARDEIDAE)

Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea) Fairly common.

Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea) Seen Hortobagey and Homorod fishponds.

Black-crowned Night Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax) Common Poland and Hungary.

Little Egret (Egretta garzetta) Fairly common Hortobagey.

Great White Egret (Casmerodius alba) Common Hungary. Also seen in Romania.

Squacco Heron (Ardeola ralloides) A few seen Hortobagey.

Great Bittern (Botaurus stellaris) Heard at Zator fishponds, 1 near Tokaj, 1 Homorod fishponds.
Little Bittern (Ixobrychus minutus) 1 lovely male at our hotel in the Hortobagey, 1 Homorod fishponds.

STORKS (CICONIDAE)

Spoonbill (Platalea leucocordia) Common Hortobagey.

Black Stork (Ciconia nigra) 3 Zemplen Hills, 2 Transylvannia,

White Stork (Ciconia ciconia) Common Poland, Hungary, Romania,

RAPTORS (ACCIPITRIDAE)

Osprey (Pandion haliaetus) 1 near Tokaj. None in Finland or Norway?

White-tailed Eagle (Haliaetus albicilla) 4 seen Hortobagey. 6 seen between Nesseby and Vardo on the 8th June. 18 seen on a drive from Vardo to Vadso at night on the 11th June and another 12 seen along Varanger Fjord on our way south the following day.

Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos) 2 pairs Torocko, Romania, 1 Homorod fishponds. 1 near Ivalo.

Eastern Imperial Eagle (Aquila heliaca) 1 sub-adult north of Tokaj, 1 adult near Erdobenye and another near Tokaj. The Zemplen hills hold 12 pairs at present.

Lesser-spotted Eagle (Aquila pomarina) Seen in the Zemplen hills. There are 13 pairs of this eagle left in the Zemplen Hills and declining. 1 seen near Torocko and another 8 in Transylvania on one day.

Short-toed Eagle (Circaetus gallicus) 1 seen near Talla in the Zemplen hills. Uncommon in Hungary.

Black Kite (Milvus nigricans) 1 along the Bodrog floodplain. There are 2-3 pairs along the Bodrog floodplain near Tokaj. Another in the Hortobagey.
Marsh Harrier (Circus aeroginosus) Common Poland and Hungary.
Montagu’s Harrier (Circus pygargus) 3 seen in the Hortobagey.

Hen Harrier (Circus cyaneus) 1 male Oulu.

Long-legged Buzzard (Buteo rufinus) A pair of this beautiful species seen on the Hortobagey. Rough-legged Buzzard (Buteo lagopus) At least three seen around Varanger Fjord.

Common Buzzard (Buteo buteo) Common Hungary and Romania. A few in Finland.

Honey Buzzard (Pernis apivorus) 4 seen north of Tokaj. There may be up to 150 pairs of this species in the Zemplen hills. Also seen in the Hortobagey.

Sparrowhawk (Accipiter nisus) Seen Zemplen Hills.

Goshawk (Accipiter gentilis) 1 Hargita mountains.

FALCONS (FALCONIDAE)

Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus) Common.

Merlin (Falco columbarius) 1 seen near Tana, Norway.

Red-footed Falcon (Falco vespertinus) Very common on the Hortobagey. (EB)

Hobby (Falco subbuteo) 2 near Tokaj, 1 Hortobagey,

Peregrine (Falco peregrinus) 1 Tokaj was a surprise, 2 near Torocko.

Saker Falcon (Falco cherrug) 1 pair seen Hortobagey. A fantastic sight.

Gyr Falcon (Falco rusticus) 1 seen on Vardo island hunting. Superb views of this huge falcon.

GROUSE (TETRAONIDAE)

Willow Grouse (Lagopus lagopus) Seen near Vardo.

Black Grouse (Tetrao tetrix) Up to 12 displaying near Kuusamo.

Hazel Grouse (Bonasa bonasia) Superb views of one male and another bird near Kuusamo. (EB).

PHEASANTS & PARTRIDGES (PHASIANIDAE)
Ring-necked Pheasant (Phasianus colchicus) Common.

Common Quail (Cotornix cotornix) Heard Zemplen Hills. 1 seen Hortobagey.

CRAKES & RAILS (RALLIDAE)

Corncrake (Crex crex) Quite common in suitable habitat, with 1 seen at one meadow and two at another in the Zemplen Hills.

Water Rail (Rallus aquaticus) Heard Zator, 1 seen Hortobagey.

Little Crake (Porzana parva) After some work we saw three males on the Hortobagey. Another trip highlight.

Common Moorhen (Gallinula chlorops) Common Zator fishponds.

Eurasian Coot (Fulica atra) Common.

CRANES (GRUIDAE)

Common Crane (Grus grus) Seen on the Hortobagey. Common Finland.

BUSTARDS (OTIDAE)

Great Bustard (Otis tarda) 9 huge males seen on the Hortobagey.

OYSTERCATCHERS (OSTRALGIDAE)

Oystercatcher (Haematopus ostalegus) Seen in Finland.

AVOCETS (RECURVIROSTRIIDAE)

Pied Avocet (Recurvirostra avocetta) Seen Hortobagey.
Black-winged Stilt (Himantopus himantopus) Seen Hortobagey.

STONE CURLEWS (BURHINIDAE)

Stone Curlew (Burhinus oeedicnemis) 1 seen Hortobagey. Rather rare this year.

PRATINCOLES (GLAREOLIDAE)

Collared Pratincole (Glareola pratincola) 6 Hortobagey.

WADERS (CHARADRIIDAE)

Little Ringed Plover (Charadrius dubius) Seen Romania.

Ringed Plover (Charadrius hiaticula) Common Norway.

Lapwing (Vanellus vanellus) A few seen throughout.

Golden Plover (Pluvialis apricaria) Common in Norway.

Redshank (Tringa totanus) Seen Wiswa river, Hortbagey, Alesd reservoir. Common Finland and Norway.

Greenshank (Tringa nebularia) A few Finland.

Green Sandpiper (Tringa ochropus) 1 Hortobagey. Common Finland and Norway.

Wood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola) 2 Romania. Common Finland and Norway. (EB).

Dunlin (Calidris alpina) Seen Hortobagey and Varanger Fjord.

Purple Sandpiper (Calidris maritima) Seen in small flocks near Vardo.

Broad-billed Sandpiper (Limicola falcinellus) Up to 5 displaying south of Utsjoki .

Temminck’s Stint (Calidris temminckii) Seen displayingin Norway.

Curlew sandpiper (Calidris ferruginea) 2 Hortobagey.

Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos) 1 Hortobagey.
Curlew (Numenius phaeopus) Common around Oulu.

Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus) Seen Varanger Fjord. 1 nest found nearby, of which a picture is included above. (EB).

Black-tailed Godwit (Limosa limosa) Several Hortobagey and Oulu area in Finland.

Bar-tailed Godwit (Limosa lapponica) Seen at Vardo.

Woodcock (Scolopax rusticola) Seen around Oulu.

Common Snipe (Gallinago gallinago) Seen on the Hortobagey and around Oulu, Finland. Turnstone (Arenaria interpres) 1 Hortobagey.

Ruff (Philomachus pugnax) Common Finland and Norway. (EB).

Red-necked Phalarope (Phalaropus lobatus) Seen Varanger area.

SKUAS (CATHARACTIDAE)

Pomarine Skua (Stercorarius pomarinus) 1 Varanger Fjord, Norway.

Long-tailed Skua (Stercorarius longicaudatus) Common Norway. This is a lovely species and good to see it so frequently and so well.

Arctic Skua (Stercorarius parasiticus) Common Norway.

GULLS (LARIDAE)

Black-headed Gull (Larus ridibundus) Common.

Common Gull (Larus canus) Common Finland.

Little Gull (Larus miniatus) 3 seen Alesd reservoir.

Mediterranean Gull (Larus melanocephalus) 15 at a fishpond near Navudvar.

Herring Gull (Larus argentatus) Common Finland.
Caspian Gull (Larus cachinnans) Common around Krakow and Hortobagey,

Heuglin’s Gull (Larus heuglini) 1 seen at Kuusamo dump.

Yellow-legged Gull (Larus michaehellis) Seen Romania.

Great black-backed Gull (Larus marinus) Common Norway.

Baltic (Lesser Black-backed) Gull (Larus fuscus) 15 at Kuusamo dump.

(Lesser Black-backed Gull (Larus fuscus graellsii/intermedius) Several birds, apparently breeding on Hornoy, were much more like the given races than fuscus. They had ashy grey mantles not black).

Glaucous Gull (Larus hyperboreus) 1 Vardo harbour, 1 Kidberg.

TERNS (STERNIDAE)

Common Tern (Sterna hirundo) Seen throughout.

Arctic Tern (Sterna paradisea) Common Finland.

Little Tern (Sterna albifrons) 1 seen at Oulu.

Whiskered Tern (Childonius hybridus) Common Poland and Hungary,

White-winged Black Tern (Childonius leucopterus) Abundant Hortobagey.

Black Tern (Chlidonius niger) Fairly common Hortobagey.

AUKS (ALCIDAE)

Common Guillemot (Uria aalge) Common Vardo.

Brunnich’s Guillemot (Uria lomvia) Several seen on Hornoy. A regional speciality. (EB). Razorbill (Alca torda) Common Vardo.

Atlantic Puffin (Fratercula arctica) Common Vardo. (EB).

Black Guillemot (Cephus grylle) Common Vardo.

PIGEONS (COLUMBIDAE)

Feral Pigeon (Columba livia) Common.
Wood Pigeon (Columba palumbus) Common throughout.

Stock Dove (Columba oenas) A few throughout. Increasingly using nest boxes around Oulu. Collared Dove (Streptopelia decaocto) Common.

Turtle Dove (Streptopelia turtur) A few Zator fishponds. Common Zemplen Hills.

CUCKOOS (CUCULIDAE)

Eurasian Cuckoo (Cuculus canorus) Common Zator fishponds.

BARN OWLS (TYTONNIDAE)

Barn Owl (Tyto alba) A nest box with three chicks was found but no adults. Many birds died this winter as it was very severe.

OWLS (STRIGIDAE)

Tawny Owl (Strix aluco) Great views of an adult brownish bird seen near Erdobenye. 1 Torocko village centre.

Great Grey Owl (Strix nebulosa) 1 female on a nest near Oulu and another female on a nest with two chicks further north. A male was found roosting near the second nest. (EB).

Ural Owl (Strix uralensis) 1 female near Tokaj in the Zemplen hills was a superb start to our Owl list. Another female was also seen at a nest near Oulu.

Eagle Owl (Bubo bubo) 1 female brooding two chicks near Tokaj. This is a common owl in the area with at least 6 pairs known from Tokaj and another 30 pairs known from the Zemplen. Hawk Owl (Surnis ulula) A superb pair watched at length near Tervola, Finalnd.

Tengmalm’s Owl (Aegolius funereus) A rather worried female seen at a nest near Oulu. (EB). Eurasian Pygmy Owl (Glaucidium passerinum) Female with young near Oulu.

Long-eared Owl (Asio clamator) 1 male seen on the Hortobagey. (EB).

Short-eared Owl (Asio flammeus) 1 pair near Vardo, Norway.

Little Owl (Athene noctua) Our fifth Owl. One seen near Navudvar and another at the Homorod fishponds.
Scops Owl (Otus scops) 1 Torocko village centre.

NIGHTJARS (CAPRIMULGIDAE)

Eurasian Nightjar (Caprimulgus europaeus) 1 seen and two heard in the Zemplen hills.

SWIFTS (APODIDAE)

Common Swift (Apus apus) Common.

Alpine Swift (Apus melba) 2 Becaz gorge.

HOOPOES (UPUPIDAE)

Hoopoe (Upupa epos) Common.

KINGFISHERS (ALCENIDAE)

Kingfisher (Alcedo atthis) Several recorded Zator fishponds and along the Bodrog river.

BEE-EATERS (MERIOPIDAE)

European Bee-eater (Merops apiaster) Seen Zemplen Hills, Hortobagey and a few in Romania.

ROLLERS (CORACIDAE)

European Roller (Coracicus garulus) Common Hortobagey.

WOODPECKERS (PICIDAE)

Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martii) Recorded Wolski forest, common Zemplen hills,

Green Woodpecker (Picus viridius) Heard Wolski forest. Seen Torocko.

Grey-headed Woodpecker (Picus canus) Heard Wolski forest. 4 seen Zemplen Hills,

White-backed Woodpecker (Dendrocopus leucotus) Superb views of a pair near Komoiska. We watched the birds at length as they fed young at a nest hole. A target species for the trip. This species has a higher density of breeding pairs here than anywhere else in the Carpathain basin and possibly Europe.

Middle-spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopus medius) Seen Poland and Hungary,

Syrian Woodpecker (Dendrocopus syriacus) Common around Tokaj.
Great-spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopus major) Fairly common.

Lesser-spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopus minor) 1 pair seen at a nest hole in the Zemplen Hills and female at a nest hole in Torocko.

Three-toed Woodpecker (Picoides tridactylus) 1 female in the Hargita mountains.
Wryneck (Jynx torquilla) 1 Zator fishponds, 1 Tokaj, several Hortobagey.

LARKS (ALAUDIDAE)

Common Skylark (Alauda arvensis) Common Krakow,

Crested Lark (Alauda cristata) Common.

Woodlark (Lullulla arborea) Seen Torocko.

Horned Lark (Eremohila alpestris) 1 adult seen in the Alpine zone above Sinaia of the form balkanica , a rare sub-species. Several seen on the fells above Varanger Fjord.

SWALLOWS AND MARTINS (HIRUNDINIDAE)

Sand Martin (Riparia riparia) Seen near Zator and on the Hortobagey.

Crag Martin (Ptyonoprogne rupestris) A few near Torocko.

Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica) Common.

Red-rumped Swallow (Hirundo daurica) 2 pairs found near Torocko, building nests. This is a rare species in the Carpathian basin.

House Martin (Delichon urbica) Common.

WRENS (TROGLODYTIDAE)

Winter Wren (Troglodytes troglodytes) Common Zemplen hills.

DIPPERS (CINCLIDAE)

White-throated Dipper (Cinlcus cinclus) 1 north Zemplen Hills. Common Transylvannia. 1 near Kuusamo.

ACCENTORS (PRUNELLIDAE)

Dunnock (Prunella modularis) Common Bucin pass.

WAGTAILS AND PIPITS (MOTACILLIDAE)

White Wagtail (Motacilla alba) Small numbers throughout.
Yellow Wagtail (Motacilla flava dombrowskii) Common Hortobagey.

Black-headed (‘Feldegg’) Wagtail (M.f.feldegg) Seen at the Homorod fishponds along with the form M.f.dombrowskii. Although considered separable by some there were intermediates at this site.

Grey Wagtail (Motacilla cinerea) A few Zemplen hills and Transylvania .

Meadow Pipit (Anthus pratensis) Common Norway.

Tree Pipit (Anthus trivialis) 1 seen Hortobagey, common Bucin pass And Hargita .

Red-throated Pipit (Anthus cervinus) Common Norway.

Water Pipit (Anthus spinoletta) Several pairs Bucin pass.

Rock Pipit (Anthus petrosus) Seen Hornoy island, Varanger Fjord.

Tawny Pipit (Anthus campestris) 1 Torocko.

WARBLERS (SYLVIDAE)
Garden Warbler (Sylvia borin) Seen in riverine willow scrub with Thrushlike Nightingale. Barred Warbler (Sylvia nisoria) Seen near Krakow and common Zemplen Hills.

Blackcap (Sylvia atricapilla) Common.

Lesser Whitethroat (Sylvia curruca) A few throughout.

Common Whitethroat (Sylvia communis) Common. Savi’s Warbler (Locustela luscinioudes) Common Zator fishponds and Hortobagey.

River Warbler (Locustella fluviatalis) 1 Zator fishponds, common Zemplen hills,

Sedge Warbler (Acrocephalus schoenobaenus) Common.

Aquatic Warbler (Acrocephalus paludicola) 3 seen in the Hortobagey. Good to see this near threatened species so well.

Moustached Warbler (Acrocephlaus melanopogon) 1 seen and several heard, at a couple of sites on the Hortobagey. A tough target species to see.

Marsh Warbler (Acrocephaluis palustris) Several near Krakow, a few Bodrog floodplain and Hortobagey .

Blyth’s Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus dumetorum) 2 singing near Oulu was a surprise. A masterful mimic with some splendid renditions of the House Sparrow call.

Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus scirpaceus) Common Hortobagey.

Great Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus arundinaceus) Common at Zator fishponds.

Icterine Warbler (Hippolais iicteriba) Seen around Krakow,

Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus collybita) Common.

Willow Warbler (Phylloscopus trochilus) Common Zator.

Wood Warbler (Phylloscopus sibilatrix) Common Wolski forest and Zemplen hills.

CRESTS (REGULIDAE)

Goldcrest (Regulus regulus) A few in Wolski forest. Common Bucin pass.

Firecrest (Regulus ignicapillus) Common Bucin pass.

FLYCATCHERS (MUSCICAPIDAE)

Spotted Flycatcher (Muscicapa striata) Common throughout.

Red-breasted Flycatcher (Ficedula parva) Single first summer male in northern Zemplen Hills. This species has almost disappeared from the Zemplen hills. Heard Sinaia.

Collared Flycatcher (Ficedula albicollis) Very common Poland and Hungary.

Pied Flycatcher (Ficedula hypoleuca) Common in Finland.

THRUSHES AND CHATS (TURDIDAE)

Robin (Erithacus rubecula) Common.

Common Nightingale (Luscinia megarhynchus) Common.

Thrush-like Nightingale (Luscinia luscinia) 1 seen and heard near Odorhieu Secuiesc.

Bluethroat (Luscinia svecia) 3 Zator fishponds. 1 juvenile Hortobagey. Also seen in Finland and Norway. (EB).

Black Redstart (Phoenicurus ochruros) Common.

Common Redstart (Phoenicurus phoenicurus) Several near Torocko, common Bucin pass.
Northern Wheatear (Oenanthe oenanthe) A few on the Hortobagey. Common Norway. Whinchat (Saxicola rubra) Several pairs with young near Torocko.

Stonechat (Saxicola torquata) Common.

Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush (Monticola saxatilis) Seen Torocko, Romania. A localised bird this far north and certainly on the edge of its range.

Redwing (Turdus iliacus) Common Finland and Norway.

Song Thrush (Turdus philomelos) Abundant Poland and Hungary .

Mistle Thrush (Turdus viscivorus) A few in Zemplen hills.

Fieldfare (Turdus piliaris) Common in Krakow, the Carpathians, Finland and Norway.
Ring Ouzel (Turdus torquatus) Common Bucin pass.

WAXWINGS (BOMBICILLIDAE)

Waxwing (Bomycilla garrulus) Several pairs seen in Finland.

TITS (PARIDAE)
Great Tit (Parus major) Fairly common.
Blue Tit (Parus caeruleus) Common. Coal Tit (Parus ater) Common.

Willow Tit (Parus montanus) Common Hargita mountains.
Marsh Tit (Parus palustris) Seen northern Zemplen Hills, Torocko.

Siberian Tit (Parus cinctus) A pair near Kuusamo.

Crested Tit (Parus cristatus) A pair Bucin pass.
Long-tailed Tit (Aegithalos caudatus) A couple seen in the Zemplen Hills.

Bearded Reedling (Panurus biarmicus) Common Hortobagey.

PENDULINE TITS (REMIZIDAE)

Penduline Tit (Remiz pendulinus) Common Zator fishponds. Heard Hortobagey.

NUTHATCHES (SITTIDAE)

Eurasian Nuthatch (Sitta europea) Common Poland and Hungary.

WALLCREEPER (TRICHODROMIDAE)

Wallcreeper (Trichodroma muraria) 2 or 3 Becaz gorge. Superb views of this much wanted bird.

TREECREEPERS (CERTHIDAE)

Eurasian Treecreeper (Certhia familiaris) Seen in Wolski forest and in the Zemplen Hills.
Short-toed Treecreeper (Certhia brachydactyla) Seen near Debrecen.

SHRIKES (LANIIDAE)

Northern Grey Shrike (Lanius excubitor) 1 Zator fishponds, 3 Becaz, Carpathians, 2 Homorod fishponds.

Lesser Grey Shrike (Lanius minor) Common Hortobagey. A few seen near Torocko .

Red-backed Shrike (Lanius collurio) Several pairs Poland, common Zemplen Hills.

CROWS (CORVIDAE)

Common Magpie (Pica pica) Abundant.

Eurasian Jay (Garulus glandarius) A few seen throughout.

Siberian Jay (Perisoreus faustus) Seen south of Otsjoki, Finland. It did take a few sites to pin this species down but this pair were very confiding.

Spotted Nutcracker (Nucifraga caryocatactes) 5 seen Hargita mountains.
Jackdaw (Corvus monedula) Common.

Hooded Crow (Corvus corone) Common.
Raven (Corvus corax) Pairs seen throughout.

STARLINGS (STURNIDAE)
Common Starling (Sturna vulgaris) Common.

ORIOLES (ORIOLIDAE)

Golden Oriole (Oriolus oriolus) Heard and seen at many sites in Hungary and Transylvania.

SPARROWS (PASSERIDAE)

House Sparrow (Passer domesticus) Common.

Tree Sparrow (Passer montanus) A few seen Krakow. Common Hungary.

FINCHES (FRINGILLIDAE)

Chaffinch (Fringila coelobs) Common throughout.

Brambling (Fringila montifringila) Common Finland and Norway.
Linnet (Carduelis cannabina) Fairly common.

Twite (Carduelis flavirostris) Several seen around Vardo.
Goldfinch (Carduelis carduelis) Common.

Siskin (Carduelis spinus) Common Finland and Norway.

Common Redpoll (Carduelis flammeus) Common Finland.

Arctic Redpoll (Carduelis hornemanni) Common in northern Finland and Norway.
Greenfinch (Carduelis chloris) Seen throughout. Serin (Serinus serinus) Abundant Hungary and Transylvania.

Common Rosefinch (Carpodacus erythrinus) Common Zator area. Several pairs noted near Becaz gorge. Abundant Oulu this year.
Hawfinch (Coccothraustes cocothraustes) Common Poland, Hungary and Romania. Common Crossbill (Loxia curvirostris) Common Bucin pass.

Bullfinch (Phyrrhula phyrrhula) Fairly common Valtavarra and Oulanka NP, Finland.

BUNTINGS (EMBERIZIDAE)

H -Rustic Bunting (Emberiza rusticus) A real struggle with several singing bird refusing to show themselves.

Lapland Bunting (Calcarius lapponicus) Singing males seen around Varanger Fjord. A stunning species in breeding plumage.

Reed Bunting (Emberiza schoeniculus) Common at Zator fishponds, Hortobagey and in Finland.

Yellowhammer (Emberiza citronella) Common at Zator and throughout Hungary.

Ortolan Bunting (Emberiza hortulana) Common Alesd reservoir, Transylvania.

Rock Bunting (Emberiza cia) Seen near Tokaj, Zemplen Hills. Also found Torocko, Romania.

Corn Bunting (Miliaria calandra) Common Zemplen Hills.

MAMMALS

We also saw a good number of bats and small rodents that were unidentified.

Red Squirrel (Sciurus vulgaris) Seen in Wolski forest and Tokaj, Hungary. Also seen in Finland. Eurasian Otter (Lutra lutra) 1 seen near Vadso at night.

Reindeer (Rangifer tarandus) A semi-domesticate of the Arctic tundra.

Roe Deer (Capreolus capreolus) Seen near Krakow and on the Hortobagey.

Chamois (Rupicapra rupicapra) 1 seen above Sinaia in the Alpine zone.

Weasel (Mustela nivalis) 1 Seen Zator fishponds.

Eastern Hedgehog (Erinaceus concolor) 1 seen in Buda Castle.

European Hare (Lepus europaeus) Common Hungary. Arctic Hare (Lepus timidus) Common Finland and Norway.

Musk Rat (Ondatra zibethicus) Seen in Finland near Kuusamo.

Coypu (Myocastor coypus) Seen Poland.

Brown Rat (Rattus norvegicus) seen in Romania.

European Souslik (Spermophilus citellus) Several seen Hungary.

Grey Seal (Halichoerus gryphus) Seen Varanger Fjord.

Bottlenose Dolphin (Hyperoodon ampullatus) Seen Varanger Fjord.